Vietnam Coracle

Vietnam has some of the best, most scenic & enjoyable riding roads in the world…

With wild & beautiful beaches, jungle-covered peaks & a fascinating but tragic history, the Côn Đảo Islands is a remarkable destination…

A richly rewarding travel experience, rail journeys in Vietnam are exciting, affordable, comfortable & a great way to see the country…

Explore one of the most exciting street food scenes in the world…

This guide covers all 21 beaches on Phu Quoc Island, including tips for accommodation, food, drink & things to see & do on each one of them…

Stretching 1,880km along the mountainous spine of Vietnam, this is a complete guide to one of the most famous roads in the world…

Hà Giang is a mystical borderland that’s home to a legendary motorbike loop through otherworldly landscapes…

One of the most famous roads in Vietnam, the Hải Vân Pass curls around a mountainous spur above the sea, linking Da Nang & Hue…

Anthony Bourdain felt a special attachment to Vietnam. Over the course of his TV career, he filmed multiple episodes in the country. I’ve pulled together & reviewed all 8 of his Vietnam shows…

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The colours, shapes, sizes, smells & variety of flora in Vietnam is mesmerizing. In this guide I’ve compiled an illustrated index of some of the flowers, plants & trees I regularly see in Vietnam’s countryside & cities….

Phong Nha has some of the most sublime landscape in Vietnam. These motorbike routes & loops explore all corners of the area’s extraordinary natural beauty….

The story of a unique drink created in a local cafe in Hue that went from being a secret recipe to a nationwide success…

Known as the ‘Roof of Indochina’, Mount Fansipan is the highest mountain in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. At 3,143m (10,312ft) it’s a ‘real’ mountain. But Fansipan can be climbed independently, without a guide or porters or any specialist climbing equipment, in one day…..

A categorized reading list including personal reviews of over 50 books about Vietnam, ranging from Vietnamese authors in translation to travel writing, journalism, history, poetry, politics & more…

A floor-by-floor guide to this cool & iconic Saigon landmark…

Escape the heat at these open-air public pools in the steamy southern metropolis…

The Saigon Waterbus should be near the top of every visitor’s itinerary for Ho Chi Minh City. As a way of seeing the city’s skyline, of experiencing its many different neighbourhoods & for sheer value for money, the Saigon Waterbus is practically unbeatable…

Thinking about riding the length of Vietnam by motorbike? Here are 5 great routes between Saigon and Hanoi, each one specifically designed to suit the needs of different travellers, based on scenery and time frame among other things….

Luxury resort with 17 beautifully restored French colonial villas on a pine-studded hillside in the Central Highlands…

How to take the bus from the capital to the far north…

Reviewing an interesting year for me personally and for this website, and for travel in Vietnam more generally…

A period of ideal weather conditions for sleeping outside in the varied landscapes of the south…

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Ride 4 loops through limestone karst scenery & bamboo forests near the Vietnam-Laos border…

Celebrating Luke’s contribution to Vietnam Coracle as a writer, researcher & photographer for multiple guides, articles & reviews…

Explore one of the most exciting street food scenes in the world…

Two of the most attractive beach destinations in Vietnam. But which should you choose?

Escape the heat at these open-air public pools in the steamy southern metropolis…

Ride 2,000km from south to north along Vietnam’s curving coastline…

The forgotten mausoleum of a pivotal historical figure…

A floor-by-floor guide to this cool & iconic Saigon landmark…

Stretching 1,880km along the mountainous spine of Vietnam, this is a complete guide to one of the most famous roads in the world…

An essential resource for independent travellers in Vietnam, nhà nghỉ means ‘guest house’…

A sub-tropical garden of Eden featuring karst mountains, rice terraces, waterfalls, caves, hiking & homestays…

A fascinating riverine voyage from the city to the beach along waterways & open sea…

Marking 25 years since I first visited Vietnam when I was just 16 years old…

The ruins of Mỹ Sơn form a sacred architectural tapestry that was once the centre of the ancient Hindu kingdom of Champa…

Deserted roads & outstanding scenery on the western frontier with Laos…

Ride the rails from the capital to the coast with your motorbike on board…

From war to women, prisons to pre-history, fabrics to fine arts, Hanoi is home to the best museums in Vietnam…

Backroads along swathes of empty beach on a tomb-studded coastline in Central Vietnam…

The best places to drink in Hội An, from wine bars, cocktail lounges, craft beer taprooms, beach pubs & clubs…

Ride 2,000km from south to north along Vietnam’s curving coastline…

Nowhere in Vietnam is there such variety of landscape & richness of culture as in the central provinces, a region best explored by motorbike…

Stretching 1,880km along the mountainous spine of Vietnam, this is a complete guide to one of the most famous roads in the world…

Ride 4 loops through limestone karst scenery & bamboo forests near the Vietnam-Laos border…

Many of Dalat’s most famous & impressive attractions lie within a 10-40km radius of the city centre. Linked by good roads through pretty scenery, these sights are best visited by motorbike…

Hà Giang is a mystical borderland that’s home to a legendary motorbike loop through otherworldly landscapes…

Phong Nha has some of the most sublime landscape in Vietnam. These motorbike routes & loops explore all corners of the area’s extraordinary natural beauty….

One of the most famous roads in Vietnam, the Hải Vân Pass curls around a mountainous spur above the sea, linking Da Nang & Hue…

Sapa and Sin Ho are two towns high up on the slopes of the Tonkinese Alps. They are connected by lofty mountain passes, offering grand scenery on a scale not seen anywhere else in Vietnam. This is an ideal scenic loop by motorbike…

A short, scenic, easily navigable & rewarding road trip through desert-like landscape on excellent coast roads between Mũi Né & Cà Ná…

In the north, the mountains are higher, the passes loftier & the scenery is more majestic than anywhere else in Vietnam….

Probably the most scenic coastal route in Vietnam, this is a meandering ocean road skirting the edges of a green & rugged peninsula…

Thinking about riding the length of Vietnam by motorbike? Here are 5 great routes between Saigon and Hanoi, each one specifically designed to suit the needs of different travellers, based on scenery and time frame among other things….

A long-time favourite beach retreat for travellers & expats, Mango Bay is still the best place to stay on Phu Quoc Island in its class & price bracket. Mango Bay offers guests both comfort & a connection to nature, but not one at the expense of the other…

The latest luxury resort on the sands of Mui Ne beach, The Anam is an elegant, Indochine-themed property…

A lush, tasteful & understated property with a narrow but beautiful beachfront & two elegant infinity pools, Camia Resort is a good value mid-range place to stay on Phu Quoc Island…

Situated on one of Phu Quoc Island’s most attractive & least developed bays, Bamboo Cottages is a small, tasteful, mid-range beach resort powered by solar energy….

A large, elegant & family-friendly oceanfront resort with architectural features echoing the style of the nearby Old Quarter in Hoi An…

Ten kilometres north of Nha Trang, Amiana Resort features a long seafront, lush gardens & several enormous, highly photogenic infinity pools…

Situated on a long, sweeping bay north of Quy Nhơn on the south-central coast, the Crown Retreat is a tasteful, attractive, low-rise beach resort…

A tasteful, understated & peaceful resort within easy reach of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Ho Tram Boutique is a favourite retreat of mine….

Featuring minimalist décor & contemporary design, The Secret is a luxury resort on the beautiful & elegant seafront road on Côn Sơn Island…

A crisp, clean & contemporary beach resort straddling the cliffs on the spectacular coast road south of Nha Trang, Mia is the embodiment of minimalist-chic….

Immaculately clean, well-designed, well-maintained, well-run & luxurious, the InterContinental features outstanding facilities, spacious & well-equipped rooms & a great beach…

In the northwest of the island, Gold Coast is a mid-range resort with excellent food, a good beach, easy access to local life & superb views of Phu Quoc’s rugged northern bays & jungles

With an immaculate rooftop infinity pool & sky bar with 360-degree views of the city & sea, Fusion Suites is set to become one of the most photographed places in Vung Tau…

Quirky but classy, The Shells is a modern resort on the west coast of Phu Quoc Island, offering generously proportioned rooms with sea-views & lots of light & space…

On a secluded, sweeping bay on the south-central coast, Timothe Beach Apartments is a tropical paradise at affordable, mid-range prices…

An enormous, five-star accommodation on a long beachfront with great facilities, the Movenpick is ideal for large families with children or travelling groups…

A lush & peaceful location in the northwest of Phu Quoc Island, Green Bay is set in beautiful grounds featuring rustic-luxury villas & two infinity pools…

A luxurious resort in a spectacular location comprised of large villas with private pools, two beaches & a plethora of high-end facilities. Premier Village would usually be out of my budget. But, due to unique pandemic-related circumstances, my friends & I were able to stay for a reduced rate…

One of the first luxury resorts to grace the sands of Mui Ne, Victoria Resort & Spa is still one of the best places to stay on this popular beach on Vietnam’s southeast coast. With lush tropical gardens & a long stretch of beach, Victoria is far more spacious than its competitors…

The unsung hero of seafront, mid-range accommodation on Long Beach, Thanh Kieu Resort is an exceptionally lush, peaceful, and unassuming place to stay on Phu Quoc Island. It’s been my go-to resort for years…

A small, modern, mid-range resort on Phu Quoc’s lesser-known east coast, The Pier occupies a fabulous position beneath jungled hills with sweeping coastal views.

An excellent, tasteful mid-range resort on a lush hillside with a fabulous infinity pool overlooking the trees & ocean….

A small-scale, affordable mid-range resort with dazzling sea views over one of the prettiest bays in Vietnam, Escalade Resort, Cam Ranh is tasteful, good value for money & great place to unwind….

Big, indulgent & exceptionally good quality, The Grand Resort & Casino marks the beginning of the transformation of the quiet & unassuming coastline of Ho Tram, into what is hoped will become Vietnam’s answer to Macau & Las Vegas….

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of December, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom As has been tradition for a […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of November, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom November is the tail end of […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of October, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom After spending 2-3 months in Saigon […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of September, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom A static, rainy and relatively boring […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of August, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom I travelled the short distance to […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of July, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom July was my first month back […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only behind-the-scenes diary for the month of June, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom At the turn of the month, […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of May, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom I spent this month in the north. […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of April, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom This month I started out on a […]

Words and photos by Tom Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of March, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom My parents arrived in Vietnam at the […]

Words and photos by Tom@VietnamCoracle Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of February, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom February in Vietnam was dominated by the […]

Words and photos by Tom@VietnamCoracle Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of January, 2024. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom This month, in what is becoming a […]

Words and photos by Tom@VietnamCoracle Hello and welcome to my patron-only scrapbook for the month of December, 2023. On this page I’ve gathered together a collection of photos and notes of where I’ve been this month and what I’ve been doing. Thank you for supporting Vietnam Coracle, Tom Heading to the highlands for the period […]

Explore one of the most exciting street food scenes in the world…

A floor-by-floor guide to this cool & iconic Saigon landmark…

Local markets exist in another dimension to the rest of the city. Vibrant, bustling, fresh & organized, there’s magic in these markets…

The Saigon Waterbus should be near the top of every visitor’s itinerary for Ho Chi Minh City. As a way of seeing the city’s skyline, of experiencing its many different neighbourhoods & for sheer value for money, the Saigon Waterbus is practically unbeatable…

Escape the heat at these open-air public pools in the steamy southern metropolis…

Revisiting my short film of a day in the life of my local neighbourhood in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), where I’ve tried to capture the rhythm of life over 24 hours in the rainy season

It’s surprisingly difficult to find a truly outstanding bowl of phở (beef noodle soup) in Saigon. But, after 8 years living & eating in this city, I’ve finally found a place that, in my opinion, serves the best bowl of phở in Saigon…

Intimate, cosy, independent & off-beat, these bars offer refuge from the city & getting there is half the fun…

A contemporary, stylish 5-star hotel in Saigon’s District 3 featuring one of the largest rooftop infinity pools in the world…

The old apartment block on Ton That Dam Street, in downtown Saigon, has been colonized by cool cafes, hipster bars & fashion boutiques. Gritty & intriguing architectural vestiges lurk in every nook & cranny of this enigmatic French colonial-era complex….

Lined with intriguing architecture, temples, shrines, pagodas, fruit trees, flowers, cafes, casual dining & other such urban miscellanea, exploring the lanes alongside Saigon’s railway tracks, on foot or on two wheels, is a fascinating experience….

The Lunch Lady in Saigon is famous for serving a different soup every day of the week. Here’s her weekly menu, illustrated with tantalizing images of each of the dishes…

After nearly 9 years, I’m leaving my neighbourhood in Saigon’s Binh Thanh District, where I have many memories of many people, places & experiences…

Serving up a mild, thick & richly aromatic curry (cà ri) with chicken or shrimp, Ngọc Hân is a small, informal, well-organized, family-run soup house on Phan Xich Long Street, Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)….

Over the course of a week, I sat & wrote for half an hour on five separate occasions at five random locations in Saigon, and described the scenes as they appeared to me, in the hope of capturing something of the spirit of the city….

The Myst is a new, quirky, stylish & elegant boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Saigon. From its enigmatic exterior to its eccentric interiors, The Myst is a bold & unique addition to the high-end hotel scene in Ho Chi Minh City…

Everyone knows who Saigon’s Lunch Lady is, right? Well, probably not this one. Ms Nga is 43 years old. She serves a different soup each day of the week, from her cramped, ramshackle soup stall. Originally from Thai Binh (a northern province famous for producing excellent cooks), she moved to Saigon in the mid-90s…

Throughout Saigon, there are clusters of crumbling old apartment complexes, all of which are on the verge of either collapse or demolition. Living conditions appear cramped and grim but, outside on the sidewalks, the street life and street food is among the best and most vibrant in the city…

At night, Saigon is at its best: temperatures are cool, humidity is low, and traffic is light – it’s the perfect time to see the city. The Midnight Loop is an urban motorbike route designed specifically for riding after dark: a night out on two wheels…

Ever since it opened a few years ago, Hotel Nikko has set the standard for modern, sleek, chic, high-end accommodation in Saigon. Its success has spawned many decent imitators in the city, but Nikko still has the edge over its competitors…

At night, a scented fog hangs over a busy intersection in Saigon. The aromatic haze is the ‘Chicken Mist’ resulting from a dozen roadside barbecues hissing, smoking and grilling hundreds of fresh chicken carcasses. This is Chicken Corner, and this is where you come to get your poultry fix of crispy, tasty, delicious, grilled chicken in Saigon…

Every Saigon neighbourhood has a local fresh produce market. Mine is Văn Thánh, where there are dozens of good, inexpensive street food vendors, cafes & juice stalls…

A guide to the capital of Vietnam’s northernmost province & gateway to the Ha Giang Loop…

A soaring walkway clinging to the cliffs hundreds of metres above the legendary Mã Pí Lèng Pass in Hà Giang…

Hà Giang is a mystical borderland that’s home to a legendary motorbike loop through otherworldly landscapes…

A mountain lodge set amidst the ethereal landscape of Du Già, in Hà Giang Province…

A rich & exciting cafe culture in an ancient market town on the Hà Giang Loop…

The deepest gorge in Vietnam, boat trips through the Tu Sản Canyon offer spectacular views…

How to take the bus from the capital to the far north…

A timber, tile & rammed-earth structure encircling a stone courtyard surrounded by a stone wall with haunting limestone peaks looming all around, the Auberge de Meo Vac is a remarkably atmospheric place to stay in Vietnam’s northernmost province, Ha Giang….

Connecting two of the most mountainous provinces in Vietnam, this motorbike route straddles the Chinese border, passing through some of the remotest parts of the country…

One of the most visually arresting regions in the nation, Ha Giang is Vietnam’s northern-most province. This gallery features 50 images showcasing the beauty of Ha Giang in order to inspire wanderlust…

Deep within the folds of steep mountains & plunging valleys, Panhou Village Ecolodge is set in the middle of a remote & seldom-visited part of Ha Giang, Vietnam’s northernmost province….

The roads between the northern provinces of Ha Giang & Cao Bang travel through some of the most spectacular & remote regions of Vietnam. Here are three highly scenic (but not always easy) motorbike routes linking Ha Giang, Ba Be Lake & Cao Bang….

When I had breakfast at a noodle house in Ha Giang, Vietnam’s northernmost frontier, it was one of those occasions when food, people and place come together perfectly…

Scattered across the coastal plains are the impressive yet rarely visited ruins of the ancient kingdom of Champa….

The forgotten mausoleum of a pivotal historical figure…

The ruins of Mỹ Sơn form a sacred architectural tapestry that was once the centre of the ancient Hindu kingdom of Champa…

Vietnam’s last imperial line left behind a rich legacy of cultural attractions in and around the former royal capital of Huế…

Exploring the multiple faiths & religions of the Mekong Delta via a selection of places of worship in the western corner of the region…

Rising from the rice paddies of north-central Vietnam, the impressive ruins of this 14th century former royal capital were designated a World Heritage site in 2011, yet few foreign travellers pay a visit to Ho Citadel.

In the misty forests on the slopes of the B’lao mountains, the young Buddhist monk, Thích Nhất Hạnh, came to build a retreat in the late 1950s. Now a world-famous spiritual leader, Thich Nhat Hanh was forced to abandon the retreat in the 1960s, but the site still exists….

Deep in the mountains & jungles of remote north-central Vietnam, lie two mysterious historical sites in a state of romantic decay…

Born in 1890, Ho Chi Minh spent his early, formative years in Kim Liên village, now preserved as an attractive & peaceful outdoor museum…

In the winter of 1941, Ho Chi Minh returned to Vietnam for the first time in 30 years. For several weeks he lived in Pac Bo Cave. Right on Vietnam’s northeastern frontier with China, Pac Bo is an important historical site in an enchanting location…

Sometimes referred to simply as ‘The General’, Võ Nguyên Giáp is a giant of Vietnamese history. Following his death, in 2013, millions have made the pilgrimage to his tomb in Central Vietnam, myself included…

This guide covers all 21 beaches on Phu Quoc Island, including tips for accommodation, food, drink & things to see & do on each one of them…

Sleeping on the sands of the beautiful & deserted northern beaches is a real adventure & an experience that will stay with you for a long time…

Away from the tourists & towns are several clusters of local, informal, atmospheric, reasonably priced, fresh, fun, friendly & scenically located seafood restaurants…

Several refreshing streams run cool & clear off the spine of jungled mountains along Phu Quoc Island’s eastern flank, all linked by quiet back-roads…

Situated on one of Phu Quoc Island’s most attractive & least developed bays, Bamboo Cottages is a small, tasteful, mid-range beach resort powered by solar energy….

Stylish sky bars with sunset views, windowless speakeasies with professional mixologists, rustic-chic wine bars above the waves, cheap beach shacks & much more…

Ascending steeply through thick rainforest, a pathway leads to a nest of giant boulders atop Đỉnh Tiên Sơn, from where there are stunning 180-degree views…

Newly completed roads have opened access to the beaches, bays, forests & hamlets of the north & east coasts of Phu Quoc Island. Previously difficult to get to, these parts of Phu Quoc are the least developed, most characterful & charming on the island….

A short, rewarding hike through thick jungle & down steep wooden ladders to a remote beach…

A seafood noodle soup native to Phu Quoc Island but with roots in the central coastal region of the mainland, bún quậy literally means ‘stirring noodles’…

An excellent, tasteful mid-range resort on a lush hillside with a fabulous infinity pool overlooking the trees & ocean….

A speciality of Phu Quoc Island, bún kèn is an underrated dish that deserves a place in the pantheon of Vietnamese noodle soups. Packed with fish, fruit & colour, it’s a tropical island in a bowl.

A local, hole-in-the-wall, Vietnamese-style ‘donut’ shack on Phu Quoc Island, Huu Tri specializes in bánh chiên (fried dough). For over a generation, this family-run business has been serving hundreds of bánh chiên made freshly on the premises each day…

Offering stupendous views, this is a fun & rewarding hike to the top of one of the jungle-clad escarpments lining Phu Quoc’s eastern flank…

Overlooking an attractive bay on Phu Quoc Island, this unpretentious, open-side little beach bar & cafe is an inexpensive & informal place for a sunset cocktail…

In the northwest of the island, Gold Coast is a mid-range resort with excellent food, a good beach, easy access to local life & superb views of Phu Quoc’s rugged northern bays & jungles

Occupying the best spot on Bai Sao, the most popular beach on Phu Quoc Island, Paradiso Beach Club is a great place to chill, drink, eat & swim…

Occupying a promontory draped in tropical foliage & surrounded by blue seas & coral reefs, Nam Nghi is a luxurious resort in a special natural setting…

Taking the boat between the Mekong Delta & Phu Quoc Island is fun, cheap, convenient & relatively hassle-free. A huge increase in fast boats & car ferries operating on several routes, means it’s now easier than ever to reach Phu Quoc Island by sea….

A long-time favourite beach retreat for travellers & expats, Mango Bay is still the best place to stay on Phu Quoc Island in its class & price bracket. Mango Bay offers guests both comfort & a connection to nature, but not one at the expense of the other…

Immaculately clean, well-designed, well-maintained, well-run & luxurious, the InterContinental features outstanding facilities, spacious & well-equipped rooms & a great beach…

A small, modern, mid-range resort on Phu Quoc’s lesser-known east coast, The Pier occupies a fabulous position beneath jungled hills with sweeping coastal views.

A lush, tasteful & understated property with a narrow but beautiful beachfront & two elegant infinity pools, Camia Resort is a good value mid-range place to stay on Phu Quoc Island…

Two of the most attractive beach destinations in Vietnam. But which should you choose?

Quirky but classy, The Shells is a modern resort on the west coast of Phu Quoc Island, offering generously proportioned rooms with sea-views & lots of light & space…

An enormous, five-star accommodation on a long beachfront with great facilities, the Movenpick is ideal for large families with children or travelling groups…

A luxurious resort in a spectacular location comprised of large villas with private pools, two beaches & a plethora of high-end facilities. Premier Village would usually be out of my budget. But, due to unique pandemic-related circumstances, my friends & I were able to stay for a reduced rate…

The unsung hero of seafront, mid-range accommodation on Long Beach, Thanh Kieu Resort is an exceptionally lush, peaceful, and unassuming place to stay on Phu Quoc Island. It’s been my go-to resort for years…

Weather is an important consideration when planning a trip to Vietnam. Here’s a month-by-month guide to weather conditions across the nation, including recommendations of where to go (and where to avoid) at different times of year…

A categorized reading list including personal reviews of over 50 books about Vietnam, ranging from Vietnamese authors in translation to travel writing, journalism, history, poetry, politics & more…

One of the most fascinating aspects of travelling through Vietnam is observing & experiencing the changes that occur from region to region

Get guides & maps specially packaged to use anywhere, anytime, even when you’re offline.

A gardener & home cook walks you through the most commonly used fresh herbs & spices that are fundamental to Vietnamese cuisine & culture…

Travellers often neglect their fitness. I practice exercise routines, methods & activities that are suitable for travel & help to maintain my fitness while on the road…

An annual spectacle of colour & beauty, the shimmering rice terraces of northern Vietnam are one of the country’s most iconic sights…

With a coastline of over 3,200km & thousands of islands lying offshore, Vietnam is a great beach destination. Blue bays, hidden coves, white sands, swaying palms & dramatic cliffs, Vietnam has it all….

Vietnam has some of the best, most scenic & enjoyable riding roads in the world…

The colours, shapes, sizes, smells & variety of flora in Vietnam is mesmerizing. In this guide I’ve compiled an illustrated index of some of the flowers, plants & trees I regularly see in Vietnam’s countryside & cities….

Vietnamese cuisine utilizes edible flowers in myriad ways. Flowers are healthy and aromatic, adding colour, flavour and texture to many dishes…

Two of the most attractive beach destinations in Vietnam. But which should you choose?

An independent motorbike road trip in Vietnam is one of the most exhilarating & memorable travel experiences available anywhere in the world today…

Riding a motorbike in/out of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) & Hanoi can be congested & polluted, but some times of the day are better than others…

From north to south, the Vietnamese coast is flecked with thousands of islands; hundreds of which are inhabited & dozens of which can be visited by island-hopping. A handful of these islands are already well-established tourist destinations, but many are only just emerging as potential attractions….

By making some simple changes to way I travel & live in Vietnam, I’m trying to reduce the amount of single-use plastic I consume. Here’s my experience….

A categorized archive of over 30 short films shot during my travels in Vietnam & intended to inspire wanderlust.

Dawn is the best time of day in Vietnam. Yet most travellers and expats never experience it. Wake up before sunrise and you’ll witness exquisite skies and the ‘roots’ of Vietnamese daily life. Rising early should be on everyone’s list of things to do in Vietnam….

A period of glorious, warm, sunny weather in the lower regions of Vietnam, the southern dry season lasts from November to May. Here are some of the best places to travel & stay during this time of year.

Intimate, cosy, independent & off-beat, these bars offer refuge from the city & getting there is half the fun…

A heritage building in the capital’s Old Quarter houses a nostalgic coffee shop, keeping the city’s younger generation in touch with its past…

A floor-by-floor guide to this cool & iconic Saigon landmark…

A rich & exciting cafe culture in an ancient market town on the Hà Giang Loop…

The story of a unique drink created in a local cafe in Hue that went from being a secret recipe to a nationwide success…

The best places to drink in Hội An, from wine bars, cocktail lounges, craft beer taprooms, beach pubs & clubs…

An ubiquitous but uncelebrated part of daily life in Vietnam, iced tea (trà đá) is an essential component of dining culture & social life…

Dozens of cool, cosy, photogenic, independent coffee shops with countryside views form one of the most exciting coffee scenes in Asia…

Stylish sky bars with sunset views, windowless speakeasies with professional mixologists, rustic-chic wine bars above the waves, cheap beach shacks & much more…

Artisanal breweries, local beer restaurants, dive bars for resident artists, chic cocktail lounges for posers & budget hangouts for backpackers…

Sip locally brewed craft beer or cocktails next to an infinity pool with panoramic views of Da Nang city & beachfront from the rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton…

Occupying the best spot on Bai Sao, the most popular beach on Phu Quoc Island, Paradiso Beach Club is a great place to chill, drink, eat & swim…

I’ve only recently started to visit my local juice lady in Saigon. Now, however, I go there every day for fresh fruit juices & smoothies. In Vietnam, fruit juices are often served with added sugar, and smoothies with condensed milk, but it’s pretty easy to order them without…

The old apartment block on Ton That Dam Street, in downtown Saigon, has been colonized by cool cafes, hipster bars & fashion boutiques. Gritty & intriguing architectural vestiges lurk in every nook & cranny of this enigmatic French colonial-era complex….

Places to rest, drink, sleep, eat & take shelter when on the road, hammock cafes are a valuable resource for long-distance travellers in Vietnam…

Overlooking an attractive bay on Phu Quoc Island, this unpretentious, open-side little beach bar & cafe is an inexpensive & informal place for a sunset cocktail…

The Central Highlands is famous for its coffee and its mountains. Photo & Bike Cafe marries these two elements nicely, making it the perfect pit-stop on any road trip that passes through Bao Loc, on the way between Saigon and Dalat…

At 5 o’clock in the afternoons in Saigon, high schools and universities disgorge their students into the busy streets. Dusk is one of the coolest times of day, and many of these students head for one of the city’s parks, where they buy food and drink from street vendors and sit on the grass talking into the evening hours – this is Cà Phê Bệt.

Saigon is at the heart of Vietnam’s economic boom: new high-rises and five-star hotels go up every year. On the upper storeys there are stylish bars with views over the city, catering to the country’s nouveau-riche and wealthy foreign visitors. But, with the price of drinks still relatively low, rooftop cocktails are affordable for travellers on all budgets, especially if you make the most of Happy Hours.

Ascending steeply through thick rainforest, a pathway leads to a nest of giant boulders atop Đỉnh Tiên Sơn, from where there are stunning 180-degree views…

A steep ascent to a giant freestanding boulder at its peak, the hike up Núi Đá Bia Mountain offers mesmerizing views…

One of the most pristine natural environments in Vietnam, several hiking trails traverse the Con Dao Islands offering sensational views…

A sub-tropical garden of Eden featuring karst mountains, rice terraces, waterfalls, caves, hiking & homestays…

A short, rewarding hike through thick jungle & down steep wooden ladders to a remote beach…

A soaring walkway clinging to the cliffs hundreds of metres above the legendary Mã Pí Lèng Pass in Hà Giang…

Between all the busy main roads, Saigon is riddled with narrow alleyways, which are quiet, cool, charming and great for walking. Here are some of my favourite areas in the city for alley walks….

Known as the ‘Roof of Indochina’, Mount Fansipan is the highest mountain in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. At 3,143m (10,312ft) it’s a ‘real’ mountain. But Fansipan can be climbed independently, without a guide or porters or any specialist climbing equipment, in one day…..

Offering stupendous views, this is a fun & rewarding hike to the top of one of the jungle-clad escarpments lining Phu Quoc’s eastern flank…

Lined with intriguing architecture, temples, shrines, pagodas, fruit trees, flowers, cafes, casual dining & other such urban miscellanea, exploring the lanes alongside Saigon’s railway tracks, on foot or on two wheels, is a fascinating experience….

Wild camp above the clouds in a haunting & beautiful landscape near Cầu Đất village in the Central Highlands…

A wide variety of noodle dishes from across Vietnam all within a few steps of each other on a tree-lined street in District 2, Ho Chi Minh City…

It’s surprisingly difficult to find a truly outstanding bowl of phở (beef noodle soup) in Saigon. But, after 8 years living & eating in this city, I’ve finally found a place that, in my opinion, serves the best bowl of phở in Saigon…

A speciality of Phu Quoc Island, bún kèn is an underrated dish that deserves a place in the pantheon of Vietnamese noodle soups. Packed with fish, fruit & colour, it’s a tropical island in a bowl.

A spicy-sour, northern-style dish, bún cá rô is an exciting, lively, textural & colourful fish noodle soup from Hanoi & the Red River Delta…

Serving up a mild, thick & richly aromatic curry (cà ri) with chicken or shrimp, Ngọc Hân is a small, informal, well-organized, family-run soup house on Phan Xich Long Street, Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)….

Explore one of the most exciting street food scenes in the world…

A broth of tomatoes & pulverized crab poured over white rice noodles & topped with marinated snails, bún riêu cua ốc is one of Vietnam’s most complex soups

Slurp and suck: this should be every traveller’s primary objective when sitting down to enjoy a bowl of one of Vietnam’s famous noodle soups. Here is my guide to why you should embrace local etiquette and leave your preconceived table manners at home….

A national comfort food, a convenience, an indulgence & in some cases a necessity, instant noodles are a staple of the Vietnamese diet. During the pandemic, however, national consumption rose by 30%…

Everyone knows who Saigon’s Lunch Lady is, right? Well, probably not this one. Ms Nga is 43 years old. She serves a different soup each day of the week, from her cramped, ramshackle soup stall. Originally from Thai Binh (a northern province famous for producing excellent cooks), she moved to Saigon in the mid-90s…

The Lunch Lady in Saigon is famous for serving a different soup every day of the week. Here’s her weekly menu, illustrated with tantalizing images of each of the dishes…

A seafood noodle soup native to Phu Quoc Island but with roots in the central coastal region of the mainland, bún quậy literally means ‘stirring noodles’…

Bún Mắm is a robust Vietnamese soup from the Mekong Delta. It’s packed with contrasting flavours, textures and colours. You’ll find bún mắm all over southern Vietnam, but one place in Saigon is especially good.

Deep in Saigon’s Chinatown, there’s a bowl of goat noodles that’s meaty, rich, silky and smooth. This soup is full of farmyard flavours: it’s a barn in a bowl. Make no mistake, this is a heavy breakfast, but it’ll keep you going till the evening…

Defined by its thick yellow noodles, crunchy rice crackers, quail eggs, fresh mint & salty-sweet sauce, mì quảng is a much-loved dish from Central Vietnam. The version at Mì Quảng 85 in Saigon is full of texture & colour, if a bit too sweet….

I was first drawn to Phở Gia Hân by the enticing aroma that wafted over the narrow street on humid evenings. A family-run soup house in a local neighbourhood, this is one of my favourite places for phở in Saigon…

One of the most pristine natural environments in Vietnam, several hiking trails traverse the Con Dao Islands offering sensational views…