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25 of the Greatest Riding Roads in Vietnam
Vietnam has some incredible riding roads: possibly some of the most scenic in the world. Based on my experience of riding around Vietnam for the last decade, I have compiled a list of what I consider some of the greatest riding roads in Vietnam…
Phu Quoc’s Beaches: A Guide
A halo of sand encompasses this green & forested island in the Gulf of Thailand. But Phu Quoc is currently undergoing major development, so now is the time to visit its beaches, before it’s too late (in some cases, it already is)…
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Book a Bike Ha Giang Extreme North Motorbike Loop
Ha Giang, Vietnam’s northern-most province, is home to a mythical landscape of conical limestone peaks & craterous valleys. Over the years, it has gained an almost legendary status among travellers. This motorbike loop is perhaps the most thrilling road trip in the country…
Anthony Bourdain in Vietnam: Retrospective & Review
Anthony Bourdain felt a special attachment to Vietnam. Over the course of his TV career, he filmed multiple episodes in the country. I’ve pulled together & reviewed all 8 of his Vietnam shows…
7 Great Streets for Street Food in Saigon
Saigon is arguably the best place to explore Vietnam’s extraordinary street food scene. The city boasts so many street food outlets that it feels like a gigantic open-air restaurant. This is my guide to 7 of the best streets for street food in Saigon…
Saigon to Hanoi by Motorbike: 5 Suggested Routes
Thinking about riding the length of Vietnam by motorbike? Here are 5 great routes between Saigon and Hanoi, each one specifically designed to suit the needs of different travellers, based on scenery and time frame among other things….
Saigon Waterbus: Guide & Itinerary
The Saigon Waterbus should be near the top of every visitor’s itinerary for Ho Chi Minh City. As a way of seeing the city’s skyline, of experiencing its many different neighbourhoods & for sheer value for money, the Saigon Waterbus is practically unbeatable…
Con Dao Islands: Travel Guide
With wild & beautiful beaches, jungle-covered peaks & a fascinating but tragic history, the Côn Đảo Islands is a remarkable destination…
Hai Van Pass | Motorbike Guide
One of the most famous roads in Vietnam, the Hải Vân Pass curls around a mountainous spur above the sea, linking Da Nang & Hue…
Plants, Flowers & Trees of Vietnam
The colours, shapes, sizes, smells & variety of flora in Vietnam is mesmerizing. In this guide I’ve compiled an illustrated index of some of the flowers, plants & trees I regularly see in Vietnam’s countryside & cities….
23 of the Best Beaches in Southern & Central Vietnam
With a coastline of over 3,200km & thousands of islands lying offshore, Vietnam is a great beach destination. Blue bays, hidden coves, white sands, swaying palms & dramatic cliffs, Vietnam has it all….
A Guide to Climbing Mount Fansipan Independently
Known as the ‘Roof of Indochina’, Mount Fansipan is the highest mountain in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. At 3,143m (10,312ft) it’s a ‘real’ mountain. But Fansipan can be climbed independently, without a guide or porters or any specialist climbing equipment, in one day…..
Vietnam Reading List & Book Reviews
A categorized reading list including personal reviews of over 50 books about Vietnam, ranging from Vietnamese authors in translation to travel writing, journalism, history, poetry, politics & more…
Ly Son Island: Travel Guide
A volcanic island surrounded by a ring of reefs, Ly Son is a striking, stark & geologically fascinating destination. Easily reached by regular fast ferries, Ly Son Island is located off the coast of central Vietnam….
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Azerai Can Tho | Independent Review
An elegant contemporary resort featuring graceful, minimalist pavilions on a private island in the Mekong River…
Seafood Treats in Phan Thiet
A bustling fishing community, Phan Thiet is home to a vibrant streetside seafood scene…
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Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey Rice Terraces of Northern Vietnam
An annual spectacle of colour & beauty, the shimmering rice terraces of northern Vietnam are one of the country’s most iconic sights…
Salt Coffee: Cà Phê Muối
The story of a unique drink created in a local cafe in Hue that went from being a secret recipe to a nationwide success…
Kim Liên: Ho Chi Minh’s Homeland
Born in 1890, Ho Chi Minh spent his early, formative years in Kim Liên village, now preserved as an attractive & peaceful outdoor museum…
Con Dao Islands: Travel Guide
With wild & beautiful beaches, jungle-covered peaks & a fascinating but tragic history, the Côn Đảo Islands is a remarkable destination…
Train Travel in Vietnam: A Guide
A richly rewarding travel experience, rail journeys in Vietnam are exciting, affordable, comfortable & a great way to see the country…
Hang Bua & Tham Om Caves
These intriguing limestone caverns are the site of the earliest known evidence of human activity in Vietnam…
Victoria Chau Doc Hotel | Independent Review
A colonial-themed hotel on the banks of the Mekong River near one of the region’s most culturally diverse towns…
Yen Hoa Tower & Phu Tuong Gate
Deep in the mountains & jungles of remote north-central Vietnam, lie two mysterious historical sites in a state of romantic decay…
How to Send a Motorbike on the Train
Put your motorbike on the train & send it from one destination to another. This is a convenient, reliable & efficient service for riders in Vietnam…
The Muong Long Loop | Nghe An Motorbike Guide
A spectacular circuit of the nation’s biggest province, the Muong Long Loop is a motorbike route to rival any other in Vietnam for scenery & adventure…
Crown Retreat Quy Nhon | Independent Review
Situated on a long, sweeping bay north of Quy Nhơn on the south-central coast, the Crown Retreat is a tasteful, attractive, low-rise beach resort…
Behind-the-Scenes Special: ‘Reunited’
I hadn’t seen my parents for 3 years, since they left Vietnam on one of the last flights out before borders closed due to the pandemic…
11 Fresh Markets in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
Local markets exist in another dimension to the rest of the city. Vibrant, bustling, fresh & organized, there’s magic in these markets…
The Golden Loop | Motorbike Guide
Nowhere in Vietnam is there such variety of landscape & richness of culture as in the central provinces, a region best explored by motorbike…
Sapa-Sin Ho Scenic Motorbike Loop
Sapa and Sin Ho are two towns high up on the slopes of the Tonkinese Alps. They are connected by lofty mountain passes, offering grand scenery on a scale not seen anywhere else in Vietnam. This is an ideal scenic loop by motorbike…
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Book a Bike Phong Nha by Motorbike: 5 Routes & Loops
Phong Nha has some of the most sublime landscape in Vietnam. These motorbike routes & loops explore all corners of the area’s extraordinary natural beauty….
Borders & Back-Roads: Sapa to Ha Giang by Motorbike
Connecting two of the most mountainous provinces in Vietnam, this motorbike route straddles the Chinese border, passing through some of the remotest parts of the country…
Ho Chi Minh Road: Motorbike Guide
Stretching almost 2,000km along the mountainous spine of Vietnam, the Ho Chi Minh Road is fast becoming famous as one of the finest motorbike rides in Asia. Now fully paved from Saigon all the way to Hanoi, this is my updated and extended guide to the entire Ho Chi Minh Road….
Dalat by Motorbike: 5 Routes & Loops
Many of Dalat’s most famous & impressive attractions lie within a 10-40km radius of the city centre. Linked by good roads through pretty scenery, these sights are best visited by motorbike…
The Coast Road: Saigon to Hoi An & Beyond
Thanks to new coastal roads, it’s now possible to ride from Saigon to Hoi An, and beyond to Dong Hoi, following the coast all the way & avoiding the busy main artery of Highway 1 for the vast majority of the route. This is a salty, sunny, sandy & scenic road trip….
High Roads: Ha Giang→Ba Be Lake→Cao Bang | 3 Routes
The roads between the northern provinces of Ha Giang & Cao Bang travel through some of the most spectacular & remote regions of Vietnam. Here are three highly scenic (but not always easy) motorbike routes linking Ha Giang, Ba Be Lake & Cao Bang….
Hai Van Pass | Motorbike Guide
One of the most famous roads in Vietnam, the Hải Vân Pass curls around a mountainous spur above the sea, linking Da Nang & Hue…
Ha Giang Extreme North Motorbike Loop
Ha Giang, Vietnam’s northern-most province, is home to a mythical landscape of conical limestone peaks & craterous valleys. Over the years, it has gained an almost legendary status among travellers. This motorbike loop is perhaps the most thrilling road trip in the country…
Saigon to Hanoi by Motorbike: 5 Suggested Routes
Thinking about riding the length of Vietnam by motorbike? Here are 5 great routes between Saigon and Hanoi, each one specifically designed to suit the needs of different travellers, based on scenery and time frame among other things….
Hoi An→Danang→Hue by Motorbike: 3 Routes & Loops
There are now four different routes between these three cities in Central Vietnam. Each route has something different to offer: choose between The Coast, The River, The Mountains, or The Tunnel…..
Sand Dune Highway: Mui Ne to Ca Na Coast Road
A short, scenic, easily navigable & rewarding road trip through desert-like landscape on excellent coast roads between Mũi Né & Cà Ná…
Nui Chua Coast Road | Phan Rang to Cam Ranh
Probably the most scenic coastal route in Vietnam, this is a meandering ocean road skirting the edges of a green & rugged peninsula…
Riding the Great North: 9 Motorbike Routes
Northern Vietnam offers some of the best motorbiking opportunities anywhere in the world. In the north, the mountains are higher, the passes are loftier, and the scenery is more majestic than anywhere else in the country….
Son Tra Peninsula, Danang | Motorbike Guide
A rugged headland at the northern tip of Danang’s municipal beach, Son Tra offers mountains & forests, cliffs & coves, wildlife & centuries-old banyan trees, lofty mountain passes with majestic views & sandy beaches untainted by concrete high-rises….
Island-Hopping in Vietnam: A Guide
From north to south, the Vietnamese coast is flecked with thousands of islands; hundreds of which are inhabited & dozens of which can be visited by island-hopping. A handful of these islands are already well-established tourist destinations, but many are only just emerging as potential attractions….
Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay: Travel Guide
An island of dramatic coastlines & jungle-clad limestone pillars, Cat Ba is one of Vietnam’s star natural attractions & part of world-famous Halong Bay….
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Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey The Beaches of Quy Nhon & Phu Yen: A Guide
The beaches of Phu Yen Province & Quy Nhon have been laying low, but their popularity is on the rise: now is the time to visit this seductive coastal region, full of hidden bays, beaches & coves. This is an extensive guide to Vietnam’s next big beach destination….
Nam Du Islands: Travel Guide
A glistening archipelago of small tropical islands off the southwestern coast of Vietnam, Nam Du is beautiful & undeveloped. With mesmerizing beaches & bays, a jungle-clad interior, and over 20 outlying islands, Nam Du is a treat…
Vung Tau | City by the Sea
An illustrated travelogue-cum-guide to Vung Tau intended to inspire a trip to this rejuvenated city by the sea…
Con Dao Islands: Travel Guide
With wild & beautiful beaches, jungle-covered peaks & a fascinating but tragic history, the Côn Đảo Islands is a remarkable destination…
23 of the Best Beaches in Southern & Central Vietnam
With a coastline of over 3,200km & thousands of islands lying offshore, Vietnam is a great beach destination. Blue bays, hidden coves, white sands, swaying palms & dramatic cliffs, Vietnam has it all….
Ly Son Island: Travel Guide
A volcanic island surrounded by a ring of reefs, Ly Son is a striking, stark & geologically fascinating destination. Easily reached by regular fast ferries, Ly Son Island is located off the coast of central Vietnam….
Phu Quoc’s Beaches: A Guide
A halo of sand encompasses this green & forested island in the Gulf of Thailand. But Phu Quoc is currently undergoing major development, so now is the time to visit its beaches, before it’s too late (in some cases, it already is)…
Hon Son Island: Travel Guide
Hon Son Island is a gem. It’s a rugged yet green & exceptionally beautiful isle. With jungle-covered mountains rising from the ocean, peaceful fishing hamlets in picturesque bays, and palm-fringed beaches, Hon Son has got it all…
Phu Quy Island: Travel Guide
A new & exciting destination, Phu Quy Island is but a drop of green land in the vast blue ocean, and has only very recently opened its doors to domestic & foreign travellers. A fascinating place with a real sense of isolation, this is my comprehensive guide to Phu Quy Island….
Phu Quoc Island: North & East Coasts
Newly completed roads have opened access to the beaches, bays, forests & hamlets of the north & east coasts of Phu Quoc Island. Previously difficult to get to, these parts of Phu Quoc are the least developed, most characterful & charming on the island….
Con Dao: Boat Trips to Outlying Islands
The smaller islands in the archipelago can be reached by speedboat, offering remote beaches, hiking, snorkeling & swimming…
Ho Tram & Ho Coc Beaches
Just 120km from the city, Ho Tram & Ho Coc are by far the best beaches within easy reach of Saigon. Forget Vung Tau, Long Hai & Can Gio, this is where you should head for sun, sea & sand when you don’t have time to go to Mui Ne or Phu Quoc.
Pirate Islands (Đảo Hải Tặc) | Travel Guide
Lying in the Gulf of Thailand, just off Vietnam’s southwest coast, Pirate Islands is a rugged archipelago, only recently opened to foreign visitors…
Tam Hai Island: Travel Guide
A small & tranquil island at the mouth of a river, Tam Hai is within easy reach of Hoi An & Danang. This little island is a self-contained, peaceful world, with its own beauty, its own festivals, and its own resort….
Cam Ranh Bay: Cam Lap Promontory
Cam Lap Promontory is one of those rare places that’s easily accessible yet largely undeveloped and utterly beautiful. It’s the kind of place you fall in love with, and one that really does deserve the overused epithet of ‘hidden gem’….
Vung Ro Bay
A drop-dead gorgeous bay on the south-central coast, Vung Ro has been slated for development for several years now, but none has arrived. So, for the time being, this beautiful area remains virtually empty and perfect for exploration….
Diep Son Island & Sandbar, Van Phong Bay
Lying in the calm, warm waters of Van Phong Bay, just an hour north of Nha Trang, Diep Son is a mini-archipelago of small green islands. At low tide, a curving sandbar is exposed, linking three of the islets via a ‘sand bridge’….
Hon Gom Sandbar
Stretching 30km out to sea, like a giant causeway to a sunken castle, Hon Gom Sandbar is a beguiling peninsular on the south-central coast. A road leads along most of its length, offering access to deserted beaches, sheltered coves & isolated fishing hamlets…
Bãi Rạng Beach, Quy Nhon
A small crescent of toast-gold sand lined with coconut palms & casuarina trees, Bãi Rạng Beach is squeezed between two rocky bluffs, 15km south of Quy Nhon. It’s still a local, working beach & remains undeveloped….
Dai Lanh Beach
A broad sweep of sand between two dramatic headlands, Dai Lanh Beach is a strikingly beautiful spot. Long blighted by the traffic & noise of Highway 1, Dai Lanh is on the cusp of great things, with the imminent opening of a new tunnel…
Long Thủy Beach Village, Phu Yen
More than just a lovely white sand beach & glistening sea; Long Thủy is also a charming network of narrow backstreets, lined with crumbling homes, small temples & cowsheds. Wandering through its tangle of alleyways is like stepping back several generations…
Noodle Street: Nguyễn Qúy Đức, District 2
A wide variety of noodle dishes from across Vietnam all within a few steps of each other on a tree-lined street in District 2, Ho Chi Minh City…
The Best Phở in Saigon
It’s surprisingly difficult to find a truly outstanding bowl of phở (beef noodle soup) in Saigon. But, after 8 years living & eating in this city, I’ve finally found a place that, in my opinion, serves the best bowl of phở in Saigon…
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Book a Bike Bún Kèn Noodles | Island Broth
A speciality of Phu Quoc Island, bún kèn is an underrated dish that deserves a place in the pantheon of Vietnamese noodle soups. Packed with fish, fruit & colour, it’s a tropical island in a bowl.
Cà Ri: Vietnamese Curry in Saigon
Serving up a mild, thick & richly aromatic curry (cà ri) with chicken or shrimp, Ngọc Hân is a small, informal, well-organized, family-run soup house on Phan Xich Long Street, Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)….
Bun Rieu Cua Oc: Crab & Snail Noodle Soup
A broth of tomatoes & pulverized crab poured over white rice noodles & topped with marinated snails, bún riêu cua ốc is one of Vietnam’s most complex soups
6 Reasons to Slurp Your Noodles
Slurp and suck: this should be every traveller’s primary objective when sitting down to enjoy a bowl of one of Vietnam’s famous noodle soups. Here is my guide to why you should embrace local etiquette and leave your preconceived table manners at home….
Instant Noodles: Pandemic Staple
A national comfort food, a convenience, an indulgence & in some cases a necessity, instant noodles are a staple of the Vietnamese diet. During the pandemic, however, national consumption rose by 30%…
Saigon’s other Lunch Lady
Everyone knows who Saigon’s Lunch Lady is, right? Well, probably not this one. Ms Nga is 43 years old. She serves a different soup each day of the week, from her cramped, ramshackle soup stall. Originally from Thai Binh (a northern province famous for producing excellent cooks), she moved to Saigon in the mid-90s…
The Lunch Lady’s Menu: An Illustrated Guide
The Lunch Lady in Saigon is famous for serving a different soup every day of the week. Here’s her weekly menu, illustrated with tantalizing images of each of the dishes…
Bún Quậy | ‘Stirring’ Noodles
A seafood noodle soup native to Phu Quoc Island but with roots in the central coastal region of the mainland, bún quậy literally means ‘stirring noodles’…
Bún Mắm: the Mekong in a Bowl
Bún Mắm is a robust Vietnamese soup from the Mekong Delta. It’s packed with contrasting flavours, textures and colours. You’ll find bún mắm all over southern Vietnam, but one place in Saigon is especially good.
Goat Noodle Soup in Chinatown
Deep in Saigon’s Chinatown, there’s a bowl of goat noodles that’s meaty, rich, silky and smooth. This soup is full of farmyard flavours: it’s a barn in a bowl. Make no mistake, this is a heavy breakfast, but it’ll keep you going till the evening…
Mì Quảng 85 Noodle House, Saigon
Defined by its thick yellow noodles, crunchy rice crackers, quail eggs, fresh mint & salty-sweet sauce, mì quảng is a much-loved dish from Central Vietnam. The version at Mì Quảng 85 in Saigon is full of texture & colour, if a bit too sweet….
Phở Gia Hân, Saigon
I was first drawn to Phở Gia Hân by the enticing aroma that wafted over the narrow street on humid evenings. A family-run soup house in a local neighbourhood, this is one of my favourite places for phở in Saigon…
Mango Bay, Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A long-time favourite beach retreat for travellers & expats, Mango Bay is still the best place to stay on Phu Quoc Island in its class & price bracket. Mango Bay offers guests both comfort & a connection to nature, but not one at the expense of the other…
The Anam Mui Ne | Independent Review
The latest luxury resort on the sands of Mui Ne beach, The Anam is an elegant, Indochine-themed property…
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Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey Camia Resort, Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A lush, tasteful & understated property with a narrow but beautiful beachfront & two elegant infinity pools, Camia Resort is a good value mid-range place to stay on Phu Quoc Island…
Bamboo Cottages Off-Grid Resort, Phu Quoc Island
Situated on one of Phu Quoc Island’s most attractive & least developed bays, Bamboo Cottages is a small, tasteful, mid-range beach resort powered by solar energy….
Amiana Resort Nha Trang | Independent Review
Ten kilometres north of Nha Trang, Amiana Resort features a long seafront, lush gardens & several enormous, highly photogenic infinity pools…
Crown Retreat Quy Nhon | Independent Review
Situated on a long, sweeping bay north of Quy Nhơn on the south-central coast, the Crown Retreat is a tasteful, attractive, low-rise beach resort…
Ho Tram Beach Boutique | Independent Review
Just a couple of hours southeast of Saigon, Ho Tram Beach Resort is one of Vietnam’s most tasteful & charming coastal retreats. It’s romantic, elegant, refined yet understated, and blends in with the natural surrounds….
The Secret Con Dao | Independent Review
Featuring minimalist décor & contemporary design, The Secret is a luxury resort on the beautiful & elegant seafront road on Côn Sơn Island…
Mia Resort Nha Trang | Independent Review
A crisp, clean & contemporary beach resort straddling the cliffs on the spectacular coast road south of Nha Trang, Mia is the embodiment of minimalist-chic….
InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort | Independent Review
Immaculately clean, well-designed, well-maintained, well-run & luxurious, the InterContinental features outstanding facilities, spacious & well-equipped rooms & a great beach…
Gold Coast Phu Quoc | Independent Review
In the northwest of the island, Gold Coast is a mid-range resort with excellent food, a good beach, easy access to local life & superb views of Phu Quoc’s rugged northern bays & jungles
Fusion Suites, Vung Tau | Review
With an immaculate rooftop infinity pool & sky bar with 360-degree views of the city & sea, Fusion Suites is set to become one of the most photographed places in Vung Tau…
The Shells Phu Quoc | Independent Review
Quirky but classy, The Shells is a modern resort on the west coast of Phu Quoc Island, offering generously proportioned rooms with sea-views & lots of light & space…
Timothe Beach Apartments | Independent Review
On a secluded, sweeping bay on the south-central coast, Timothe Beach Apartments is a tropical paradise at affordable, mid-range prices…
Mövenpick Resort Waverly Phu Quoc | Independent Review
An enormous, five-star accommodation on a long beachfront with great facilities, the Movenpick is ideal for large families with children or travelling groups…
Premier Village Resort Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A luxurious resort in a spectacular location comprised of large villas with private pools, two beaches & a plethora of high-end facilities. Premier Village would usually be out of my budget. But, due to unique pandemic-related circumstances, my friends & I were able to stay for a reduced rate…
Victoria Beach Resort, Mui Ne
One of the first luxury resorts to grace the sands of Mui Ne, Victoria Resort & Spa is still one of the best places to stay on this popular beach on Vietnam’s southeast coast. With lush tropical gardens & a long stretch of beach, Victoria is far more spacious than its competitors…
Thanh Kieu Beach Resort, Phu Quoc Island
The unsung hero of seafront, mid-range accommodation on Long Beach, Thanh Kieu Resort is an exceptionally lush, peaceful, and unassuming place to stay on Phu Quoc Island. It’s been my go-to resort for years…
The Pier Phu Quoc Resort | Independent Review
A small, modern, mid-range resort on Phu Quoc’s lesser-known east coast, The Pier occupies a fabulous position beneath jungled hills with sweeping coastal views.
Lahana Resort Phu Quoc | Independent Review
An excellent, tasteful mid-range resort on a lush hillside with a fabulous infinity pool overlooking the trees & ocean….
Escalade Resort, Cam Ranh Bay
A small-scale, affordable mid-range resort with dazzling sea views over one of the prettiest bays in Vietnam, Escalade Resort, Cam Ranh is tasteful, good value for money & great place to unwind….
The Grand Ho Tram Resort & Casino
Big, indulgent & exceptionally good quality, The Grand Resort & Casino marks the beginning of the transformation of the quiet & unassuming coastline of Ho Tram, into what is hoped will become Vietnam’s answer to Macau & Las Vegas….
Into the Wild Hike & Camp | Phu Quoc Island
A short, rewarding hike through thick jungle & down steep wooden ladders to a remote beach…
Hiking the Con Dao Islands
One of the most pristine natural environments in Vietnam, several hiking trails traverse the Con Dao Islands offering sensational views…
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Book a Bike Trekking to Đỉnh Tiên Sơn Peak | Phu Quoc Island
Ascending steeply through thick rainforest, a pathway leads to a nest of giant boulders atop Đỉnh Tiên Sơn, from where there are stunning 180-degree views…
Walking Saigon’s Alleyways
Between all the busy main roads, Saigon is riddled with narrow alleyways, which are quiet, cool, charming and great for walking. Here are some of my favourite areas in the city for alley walks….
A Guide to Climbing Mount Fansipan Independently
Known as the ‘Roof of Indochina’, Mount Fansipan is the highest mountain in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. At 3,143m (10,312ft) it’s a ‘real’ mountain. But Fansipan can be climbed independently, without a guide or porters or any specialist climbing equipment, in one day…..
Núi Đá Bạc Mountain Trek | Phu Quoc Island
Offering stupendous views, this is a fun & rewarding hike to the top of one of the jungle-clad escarpments lining Phu Quoc’s eastern flank…
Exploring Saigon’s Railway Tracks: A Guide
Lined with intriguing architecture, temples, shrines, pagodas, fruit trees, flowers, cafes, casual dining & other such urban miscellanea, exploring the lanes alongside Saigon’s railway tracks, on foot or on two wheels, is a fascinating experience….
Camping, Hiking & Cloud-Hunting in Cau Dat
Wild camp above the clouds in a haunting & beautiful landscape near Cầu Đất village in the Central Highlands…
Trà Đá: Vietnamese Iced Tea
One of the many little joys of daily life in Vietnam, trà đá is an essential but uncelebrated element of Vietnamese dining culture & social life…
Bancông Cafe | Hanoi
A heritage building in the capital’s Old Quarter houses a nostalgic coffee shop, keeping the city’s younger generation in touch with its past…
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Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey 21 Great Places for Cocktails on Phu Quoc Island
Stylish sky bars with sunset views, windowless speakeasies with professional mixologists, rustic-chic wine bars above the waves, cheap beach shacks & much more…
19 Coffee Shops in Dalat With a View
Dozens of cool, cosy, photogenic, independent coffee shops with countryside views form one of the most exciting coffee scenes in Asia…
Drinking & Nightlife in Hue
Artisanal breweries, local beer restaurants, dive bars for resident artists, chic cocktail lounges for posers & budget hangouts for backpackers…
Salt Coffee: Cà Phê Muối
The story of a unique drink created in a local cafe in Hue that went from being a secret recipe to a nationwide success…
Horizon Rooftop Bar | Four Points, Da Nang
Sip locally brewed craft beer or cocktails next to an infinity pool with panoramic views of Da Nang city & beachfront from the rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton…
Paradiso Beach Club, Phu Quoc Island
Occupying the best spot on Bai Sao, the most popular beach on Phu Quoc Island, Paradiso Beach Club is a great place to chill, drink, eat & swim…
The Juice Lady, Saigon
I’ve only recently started to visit my local juice lady in Saigon. Now, however, I go there every day for fresh fruit juices & smoothies. In Vietnam, fruit juices are often served with added sugar, and smoothies with condensed milk, but it’s pretty easy to order them without…
The Cafe Apartment at No.14 Ton That Dam, Saigon
The old apartment block on Ton That Dam Street, in downtown Saigon, has been colonized by cool cafes, hipster bars & fashion boutiques. Gritty & intriguing architectural vestiges lurk in every nook & cranny of this enigmatic French colonial-era complex….
Cà Phê Võng: Ode to Hammock Cafes
Places to rest, drink, sleep, eat & take shelter when on the road, hammock cafes are a valuable resource for long-distance travellers in Vietnam…
Mun’s Cafe & Rum Bar | Phu Quoc Island
Overlooking an attractive bay on Phu Quoc Island, this unpretentious, open-side little beach bar & cafe is an inexpensive & informal place for a sunset cocktail…
The Cafe Apartment on Saigon’s Walking Street
Boasting over 30 independent coffee shops & fashion boutiques, the old apartment block at No.42 Nguyen Hue is the coolest address on Saigon’s Walking Street. I call it the Cafe Apartment: this is my complete floor-by-floor guide…
Coffee with a View: Photo & Bike Cafe
The Central Highlands is famous for its coffee and its mountains. Photo & Bike Cafe marries these two elements nicely, making it the perfect pit-stop on any road trip that passes through Bao Loc, on the way between Saigon and Dalat…
Cà Phê Bệt: Saigon’s Street Coffee Scene
At 5 o’clock in the afternoons in Saigon, high schools and universities disgorge their students into the busy streets. Dusk is one of the coolest times of day, and many of these students head for one of the city’s parks, where they buy food and drink from street vendors and sit on the grass talking into the evening hours – this is Cà Phê Bệt.
TOP 5: Rooftop Cocktails in Saigon
Saigon is at the heart of Vietnam’s economic boom: new high-rises and five-star hotels go up every year. On the upper storeys there are stylish bars with views over the city, catering to the country’s nouveau-riche and wealthy foreign visitors. But, with the price of drinks still relatively low, rooftop cocktails are affordable for travellers on all budgets, especially if you make the most of Happy Hours.
Train Travel in Vietnam: A Guide
A richly rewarding travel experience, rail journeys in Vietnam are exciting, affordable, comfortable & a great way to see the country…
Vung Tau→Con Dao Express Ferry
Using modern fast ferries, this sea crossing to the magical Côn Đảo Islands is a great alternative to flying for travellers who value an experience over convenience…
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Book a Bike How to Send a Motorbike on the Train
Put your motorbike on the train & send it from one destination to another. This is a convenient, reliable & efficient service for riders in Vietnam…
Saigon Waterbus: Guide & Itinerary
The Saigon Waterbus should be near the top of every visitor’s itinerary for Ho Chi Minh City. As a way of seeing the city’s skyline, of experiencing its many different neighbourhoods & for sheer value for money, the Saigon Waterbus is practically unbeatable…
Saigon to Vung Tau by Ferry Boat
Taking the boat between Saigon & Vung Tau is one of Vietnam’s most underrated journeys. It’s a fascinating voyage from downtown Saigon, along several rivers, and across open sea to Vung Tau. New, comfortable & more reliable boats now ply this route…
The Can Gio→Vung Tau Car Ferry
A great boon to travellers, this new ferry connects two of the most popular destinations near Ho Chi Minh City: Can Gio mangrove forest and Vung Tau beach…
Beach Bus: Saigon↔Rach Gia Limousine | Passengers & Motorbikes
Thien Thanh Limousine runs luxury buses between Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) & Rach Gia in the Mekong Delta, gateway to Vietnam’s islands in the Gulf of Thailand. This is a great service for passengers & motorbikes…
Hanoi to Hai Phong by Train: Passengers & Motorbikes
The Hanoi↔Hai Phong train is a brilliant option for travellers with motorbikes looking to get from the capital city to Cat Ba Island (or vice-versa), without having to negotiate the horrible highways….
Soc Trang→Con Dao Express Ferry
The fastest, cheapest & most reliable boat connection from the mainland to the islands, the Sóc Trăng→Côn Đảo ferry takes just 2 hours…
Can Tho→Con Dao Express Ferry
A fast ferry route connecting the largest city in the Mekong Delta with Con Son Island in the Con Dao Archipelago…
The Fanxipan Express: Hanoi to Lao Cai by Train (Passengers & Motorbikes)
Rattling through the night from the capital city, along the Red River Valley, and into the northwest mountains surrounding Lao Cai on the Chinese border, the Fanxipan Express is a romantic rail journey that’s cheap, comfortable & easy to organize….
The Can Gio→Can Giuoc Car Ferry
This ferry enables travellers with their own wheels to bypass Saigon completely when travelling between the southeast coast & the Mekong Delta…
Hanoi→Lang Son→Dong Dang by Train: Passengers & Motorbikes
A train runs once daily in both directions between Hanoi, Lang Son & Dong Dang, on the Chinese border. Linking Vietnam’s capital with its mountainous northeastern provinces, this is a scenic rail journey & passengers can carry their motorbikes on board
Saigon to Phan Thiet by Train: Passengers & Motorbikes
The daily, non-stop express train between Saigon & Phan Thiet/Mui Ne is a cheap, easy, fun, fast & efficient way to get from the city to the beach. Put your motorbike on the train with you & let the rails carry your wheels….
Phu Quoc Island by Boat
Taking the boat between the Mekong Delta & Phu Quoc Island is fun, cheap, convenient & relatively hassle-free. A huge increase in fast boats & car ferries operating on several routes, means it’s now easier than ever to reach Phu Quoc Island by sea….
The Cham Towers & Ancient Citadel of Vijaya
Scattered across the plains of Binh Dinh Province, the ruins of the ancient kingdom of Champa are a powerful reminder of the rich history of what is now Vietnam. Visiting the remains of the Cham towers & Vijaya citadel is a rewarding day trip from Quy Nhon….
Last Emperors: Nguyen Dynasty Sites in Hue
Vietnam’s last imperial line left behind a rich legacy of cultural attractions in and around the former royal capital of Huế…
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Chôm Chôm Travel
Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey Ho Citadel
Rising from the rice paddies of north-central Vietnam, the impressive ruins of this 14th century former royal capital were designated a World Heritage site in 2011, yet few foreign travellers pay a visit to Ho Citadel.
Phương Bối Hill: The Buddhist Monk Thích Nhất Hạnh’s Retreat
In the misty forests on the slopes of the B’lao mountains, the young Buddhist monk, Thích Nhất Hạnh, came to build a retreat in the late 1950s. Now a world-famous spiritual leader, Thich Nhat Hanh was forced to abandon the retreat in the 1960s, but the site still exists….
Yen Hoa Tower & Phu Tuong Gate
Deep in the mountains & jungles of remote north-central Vietnam, lie two mysterious historical sites in a state of romantic decay…
Kim Liên: Ho Chi Minh’s Homeland
Born in 1890, Ho Chi Minh spent his early, formative years in Kim Liên village, now preserved as an attractive & peaceful outdoor museum…
Ho Chi Minh’s Cave: Hang Pác Bó
In the winter of 1941, Ho Chi Minh returned to Vietnam for the first time in 30 years. For several weeks he lived in Pac Bo Cave. Right on Vietnam’s northeastern frontier with China, Pac Bo is an important historical site in an enchanting location…
The General’s Tomb | A Memory
Sometimes referred to simply as ‘The General’, Võ Nguyên Giáp is a giant of Vietnamese history. Following his death, in 2013, millions have made the pilgrimage to his tomb in Central Vietnam, myself included…
Phu Quoc Island
Phu Quoc Island: North & East Coasts
Newly completed roads have opened access to the beaches, bays, forests & hamlets of the north & east coasts of Phu Quoc Island. Previously difficult to get to, these parts of Phu Quoc are the least developed, most characterful & charming on the island….
Where to Eat Seafood on Phu Quoc Island
Away from the tourists & towns are several clusters of local, informal, atmospheric, reasonably priced, fresh, fun, friendly & scenically located seafood restaurants…
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Book a Bike Camping on Dragon Beach & the Northern Bays | Phu Quoc Island
Sleeping on the sands of the beautiful & deserted northern beaches is a real adventure & an experience that will stay with you for a long time…
Spring Hopping Loop | Phu Quoc Island
Several refreshing streams run cool & clear off the spine of jungled mountains along Phu Quoc Island’s eastern flank, all linked by quiet back-roads…
Bamboo Cottages Off-Grid Resort, Phu Quoc Island
Situated on one of Phu Quoc Island’s most attractive & least developed bays, Bamboo Cottages is a small, tasteful, mid-range beach resort powered by solar energy….
21 Great Places for Cocktails on Phu Quoc Island
Stylish sky bars with sunset views, windowless speakeasies with professional mixologists, rustic-chic wine bars above the waves, cheap beach shacks & much more…
Trekking to Đỉnh Tiên Sơn Peak | Phu Quoc Island
Ascending steeply through thick rainforest, a pathway leads to a nest of giant boulders atop Đỉnh Tiên Sơn, from where there are stunning 180-degree views…
Into the Wild Hike & Camp | Phu Quoc Island
A short, rewarding hike through thick jungle & down steep wooden ladders to a remote beach…
Bún Quậy | ‘Stirring’ Noodles
A seafood noodle soup native to Phu Quoc Island but with roots in the central coastal region of the mainland, bún quậy literally means ‘stirring noodles’…
Lahana Resort Phu Quoc | Independent Review
An excellent, tasteful mid-range resort on a lush hillside with a fabulous infinity pool overlooking the trees & ocean….
Bún Kèn Noodles | Island Broth
A speciality of Phu Quoc Island, bún kèn is an underrated dish that deserves a place in the pantheon of Vietnamese noodle soups. Packed with fish, fruit & colour, it’s a tropical island in a bowl.
Huu Tri ‘Donut’ Shack | Phu Quoc
A local, hole-in-the-wall, Vietnamese-style ‘donut’ shack on Phu Quoc Island, Huu Tri specializes in bánh chiên (fried dough). For over a generation, this family-run business has been serving hundreds of bánh chiên made freshly on the premises each day…
Núi Đá Bạc Mountain Trek | Phu Quoc Island
Offering stupendous views, this is a fun & rewarding hike to the top of one of the jungle-clad escarpments lining Phu Quoc’s eastern flank…
Mun’s Cafe & Rum Bar | Phu Quoc Island
Overlooking an attractive bay on Phu Quoc Island, this unpretentious, open-side little beach bar & cafe is an inexpensive & informal place for a sunset cocktail…
Gold Coast Phu Quoc | Independent Review
In the northwest of the island, Gold Coast is a mid-range resort with excellent food, a good beach, easy access to local life & superb views of Phu Quoc’s rugged northern bays & jungles
Paradiso Beach Club, Phu Quoc Island
Occupying the best spot on Bai Sao, the most popular beach on Phu Quoc Island, Paradiso Beach Club is a great place to chill, drink, eat & swim…
Nam Nghi Coral Peninsula | Phu Quoc
Occupying a promontory draped in tropical foliage & surrounded by blue seas & coral reefs, Nam Nghi is a luxurious resort in a special natural setting…
Phu Quoc Island by Boat
Taking the boat between the Mekong Delta & Phu Quoc Island is fun, cheap, convenient & relatively hassle-free. A huge increase in fast boats & car ferries operating on several routes, means it’s now easier than ever to reach Phu Quoc Island by sea….
Mango Bay, Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A long-time favourite beach retreat for travellers & expats, Mango Bay is still the best place to stay on Phu Quoc Island in its class & price bracket. Mango Bay offers guests both comfort & a connection to nature, but not one at the expense of the other…
Phu Quoc’s Beaches: A Guide
A halo of sand encompasses this green & forested island in the Gulf of Thailand. But Phu Quoc is currently undergoing major development, so now is the time to visit its beaches, before it’s too late (in some cases, it already is)…
InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort | Independent Review
Immaculately clean, well-designed, well-maintained, well-run & luxurious, the InterContinental features outstanding facilities, spacious & well-equipped rooms & a great beach…
The Pier Phu Quoc Resort | Independent Review
A small, modern, mid-range resort on Phu Quoc’s lesser-known east coast, The Pier occupies a fabulous position beneath jungled hills with sweeping coastal views.
Camia Resort, Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A lush, tasteful & understated property with a narrow but beautiful beachfront & two elegant infinity pools, Camia Resort is a good value mid-range place to stay on Phu Quoc Island…
The Shells Phu Quoc | Independent Review
Quirky but classy, The Shells is a modern resort on the west coast of Phu Quoc Island, offering generously proportioned rooms with sea-views & lots of light & space…
Mövenpick Resort Waverly Phu Quoc | Independent Review
An enormous, five-star accommodation on a long beachfront with great facilities, the Movenpick is ideal for large families with children or travelling groups…
Premier Village Resort Phu Quoc | Independent Review
A luxurious resort in a spectacular location comprised of large villas with private pools, two beaches & a plethora of high-end facilities. Premier Village would usually be out of my budget. But, due to unique pandemic-related circumstances, my friends & I were able to stay for a reduced rate…
Thanh Kieu Beach Resort, Phu Quoc Island
The unsung hero of seafront, mid-range accommodation on Long Beach, Thanh Kieu Resort is an exceptionally lush, peaceful, and unassuming place to stay on Phu Quoc Island. It’s been my go-to resort for years…
Camping in Dalat: A Guide
One of the best travel experiences in Vietnam’s Central Highlands is wild camping under a canopy pine trees in the misty mountains north of Dalat….
Camping Season in Southern Vietnam
A period of ideal weather conditions for sleeping outside in the varied landscapes of the south, Camping Season lasts from December to March…
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Chôm Chôm Travel
Tailor-made off-the-beaten-path journeys for adventurous families in VietnamCreate Your Journey Wild Camping on the La Nga River: A Guide
Midway between the coast & the mountains, the La Nga River runs clean & clear with dozens of potential campsites on its banks & opportunities for wild swimming
Camping on Dragon Beach & the Northern Bays | Phu Quoc Island
Sleeping on the sands of the beautiful & deserted northern beaches is a real adventure & an experience that will stay with you for a long time…
Motocamping South-Central Vietnam in the Dry Season
One of the most rewarding & deeply satisfying travel experiences I’ve had in over a decade of travelling in Vietnam, motocamping (‘motorbike-camping’) is thrilling, challenging, fulfilling & still a fairly niche activity…
Camping, Hiking & Cloud-Hunting in Cau Dat
Wild camp above the clouds in a haunting & beautiful landscape near Cầu Đất village in the Central Highlands…
Lak Tented Camp | Independent Review
With luxury safari-tents & lakeside bungalows spread over a lush hillside on the shores of Lake Lak in the Dak Lak highlands, Lak Tented Camp is an atmospheric accommodation with a deep attachment to the natural environment…
New Year’s Camping in the Pine Forests
To mark the end of 2020 (the ‘Lost Year’), my friends & I went on a wild camping trip in the pine forests of the Central Highlands: an activity that’s possible in Vietnam, even as many countries continue to endure lock-downs & social-distancing
Camping the Ocean Road: Saigon to Nha Trang
Pitch your tent under a coconut palm just metres from the surf & enjoy Vietnam’s south coast sleeping in the open air: This is my guide to camping on the beaches along the Ocean Road from Saigon to Nha Trang….
On the Road & Under the Sky: Lunar New Year, 2018
Lunar New Year (Tết) is a time of gathering: of family & friends; of people & parties. But this year, I undertook to spend my Tết holiday in peace & solitude: I took my motorbike, my tent & my guitar & set off for 11 days on the road & under the sky…
Dalat
Bao Dai Waterfall
Bao Dai Waterfall is one of the most spectacular but least-visited of all the cascades within reach of Dalat…
Ana Mandara Villas, Dalat
17 beautifully restored French colonial villas on a pine-studded hillside, Ana Mandara Resort & Spa keeps the romance of Dalat alive. Luxury accommodation in the Central Highlands doesn’t get more atmospheric than this…
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Book a Bike 19 Coffee Shops in Dalat With a View
Dozens of cool, cosy, photogenic, independent coffee shops with countryside views form one of the most exciting coffee scenes in Asia…
Dalat by Motorbike: 5 Routes & Loops
Many of Dalat’s most famous & impressive attractions lie within a 10-40km radius of the city centre. Linked by good roads through pretty scenery, these sights are best visited by motorbike…
Hotel Du Parc, Dalat
The Hotel Du Parc offers excellent value mid-range accommodation in the Central Highlands’ city of Dalat. Housed in a French building from the 1930s, this hotel has colonial ambience with modern amenities at very reasonable prices…
Camping in Dalat: A Guide
One of the best travel experiences in Vietnam’s Central Highlands is wild camping under a canopy pine trees in the misty mountains north of Dalat….
Saigon to Dalat: the ‘Back Ways’
There are many ways to ride from Saigon to Dalat, but if you want a relatively direct route that avoids highways, there are several great options. These ‘back ways’ to Dalat utilize new, quiet & scenic roads to make the journey as fun as possible…
Dalat’s Waterfalls: A Guide
Dalat is located in Lâm Đồng Province, a mountainous region that boasts lots of waterfalls. I visited them all, in order to compile this list & guide to the waterfalls of Dalat & the surrounding area. Many of the falls are truly spectacular, while some are ruined by tourist development…
Video: Dalat’s Waterfalls
A vicarious tour of the region’s best cascades…
New Year’s Camping in the Pine Forests
To mark the end of 2020 (the ‘Lost Year’), my friends & I went on a wild camping trip in the pine forests of the Central Highlands: an activity that’s possible in Vietnam, even as many countries continue to endure lock-downs & social-distancing
Datanla Waterfall
Description | Image Slideshow | Map First published May 2014 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle Datanla waterfall is only 6km from Dalat city centre. It’s no surprise then, that this is the most touristy and developed of all … Continue reading
The Pine Tree Road | Motorbike Guide
North of Dalat, an enticing road plunges deep into the pine forests of the Central Highlands before dead-ending in the beautiful Krông Nô River Valley…
Camping, Hiking & Cloud-Hunting in Cau Dat
Wild camp above the clouds in a haunting & beautiful landscape near Cầu Đất village in the Central Highlands…
Pongour Waterfall
Description | Image Slideshow | Map First published May 2014 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle Pongour is one of the most famous waterfalls in the province. It’s much loved and much visited by Vietnamese of all ages. As … Continue reading
Grilling on Hot Rocks: Chu Quán, Dalat
One of Dalat’s new & exciting places to eat, Chu Quán is run by a young Vietnamese couple with a passion for good food & inventive decor. A smoky, open-sided BBQ-grill restaurant, this place has been buzzing since it opened…
Tiger Waterfall
Description | Image Slideshow | Map First published May 2014 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle Tiger waterfall is situated deep in the pine forests surrounding Dalat. Only 15km east of the city, these falls are easily reached but … Continue reading
Elephant Waterfall
Description | Image Slideshow | Map First published May 2014 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle Elephant waterfall is in a heavily farmed valley at the bottom of a mountain pass, 30km southwest of Dalat. It’s a popular excursion … Continue reading