7 Great Streets for Street Food in Saigon

Last updated November 2016 | Words and photos by Vietnam Coracle


The street food scene in Saigon permeates every district, neighbourhood, and alleyway; the city boasts so many street food outlets that, at times, Saigon feels like one gigantic, open-air restaurant. Every day, thousands of street-side eateries offer up delicious, cheap food in an informal environment on the city’s sidewalks. But street food is about more than food: it’s about atmosphere and ambience. As a friend of mine once pointed out, if you take street food home with you, it doesn’t taste anywhere near as good. Eating street food is without doubt the best thing to do in Saigon. Here are my 7 favourite streets for street food in Saigon.

Street Food, SaigonStreet food is quite simply the best thing to do in Saigon

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Below I’ve listed, reviewed, and plotted on my map seven of the best streets for street food in Saigon. The following streets are not in order of preference: I love each one as much as the others. In the descriptions for each street I’ve included my recommendations of particular places to eat. While some people have strict definitions of what is and isn’t ‘street food’, I define it as anything that’s eaten outside, on the street, at affordable prices. (See Related Posts for more of my street food guides)

Click on one of the street names to read more about it:

        1. VAN KIEP STREET: Phu Nhuan/Binh Thanh districts

        2. SU VAN HANH STREET: District 10

        3. VINH KHANH STREET: District 4

        4. PHAN VAN HAN STREET: Binh Thanh District

        5. CO GIANG STREET: District 1

        6. TRAN KHAC CHAN STREETDistrict 1

        7. NGUYEN THUONG HIEN STREETDistrict 3

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My 7 Best Street Food Streets in Saigon:

View in a LARGER MAP

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Border of Phu Nhuan & Binh Thanh districts [MAP]

Even in the light drizzle of a cool rainy season evening Van Kiep Street is a thrilling exhibition of Vietnamese street food. Showcasing dozens of different dishes all in the space of a couple hundred metres, Vạn Kiếp Street straddles the border of two of Saigon’s most vibrant districts, Phu Nhuan and Binh Thanh. Neon signs prick the night, illuminating the slanting rain as they announce the specialities of each food and drink outlet: phở, bánh canh cua, bánh mì, bánh xèo, bún mắm, bún bò Huế, bún chả, nem nướng, chè – there must be at least fifty different dishes available on this street, and over a hundred eateries to choose from. The street is packed with young Vietnamese – I rarely see any customers over the age of 30 – all clustered around small plastic tables, hunched over on small plastic stools, talking, eating, gesticulating, laughing.

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Grilling on the sidewalk for bún chảGrilling pork patties on the sidewalk, Van Kiep Street

Quán 104 (230 Van Kiep) is a small, trendy place specializing in grilled octopus (bạch tuộc nướng), which is very popular with Saigon youth at the moment. The spicy, marinated octopus is grilled over a coal barbecue on the sidewalk; the scented smoke wafts into the street, enticing all who pass to stop and eat, like a vaporous Siren. Van Kiep has more than its fair share of bánh canh cua outlets – a stodgy, slippery, fishy, noodley southern classic: try it at 63 Van Kiep. Near the intersection with Phan Xich Long Street there are a couple of good bún mắm stalls. This is a potent seafood noodle soup which is crammed full of wholesome ingredients (read more about it HERE).

Night, street food vendor, SaigonOne of many bánh canh cua  outlets on Van Kiep Street

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District 10 [MAP]

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Sư Vạn Hạnh is a long, lively street in general, but the section between Ngô Gia Tự and Nguyễn Chí Thanh streets is partiuclarly frenetic and jam-packed with excellent street food. When I lived just up the road from here, my housemates and I referred to it as ‘The Ghetto’, because the area is dominated by several run-down, Soviet-style apartment blocks. Because there are so many people living so closely together in this neighbourhood (and because conditions are so cramped inside that people would rather spend their time outside), the area’s street-life is exceptionally vibrant. Food stalls, vendors, casual eateries, cafes and bars line the street, all in the shadow of the dilapidated apartment complex. Young and old, families and couples take their seats on plastic stools at metallic tables and tuck into the various street treats on offer. The contrast between the energy and colour of the street food scene and the grey, grim, concrete bleakness of the apartment buildings (some of which are now in a state of demolition) is extreme and compelling.

Banh xeo street food vendor, SaigonSu Van Hanh Street specializes in mini bánh xèo, crispy rice flour pancakes

This street’s speciality is bánh xèo (savoury crepes filled with pork and bean sprouts). Dozens of places serve small bánh xèo cooked on circular trays over flaming, coal-fired barbecues. My favourite is at 004 Lô H (literally ‘Block H’), where the family have been in the bánh xèo business on the same spot for 14 years. At the corner with Hòa Hảo Street there’s a good Chinese-style noodle outlet called Tai Phát. Try the mì vịt tiềm (egg noodles with duck in a deeply aromatic broth). The noodles are sold from a classic xe mì (noodle trolley) decorated with painted dragons and scenes from Chinese mythology. Right at the southern end of Block H (Lô H) there’s an outstanding Vietnamese dessert stall on the corner. This place is rammed with young Vietnamese who gather around the tiny tables in groups to enjoy any of the sixteen different kinds of dessert sold here. All of them are gooey, sweet, colourful and involve sticky rice, green bean or coconut milk in some form or another. The textures and flavours might be unfamiliar to most foreign palates but the sheer variety and youthful energy of this stall make it my favourite place on this street (read more about it HERE).

Vietnamese desert (che), street food, SaigonVietnamese dessert (chè) in all its gooey glory and endless variety

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District 4 [MAP]

Apparently one of the favourite haunts of the notorious Vietnamese gangster Năm Cam (executed in 2004), today Vĩnh Khánh Street is one of the most popular places for street food in Saigon, especially seafood. Every night young people throng the sidewalks sporting trendy hairdos, tattoos, and the latest fashions from South Korea – you rarely see anyone over the age of 25 here. The atmosphere is electric: hundreds of small and large groups of friends hunker down at tiny red and blue plastic tables, splitting shells, cracking crab legs, clinking beer glasses and having a really good time. As if the thundering cacophony of laughter, traffic, and orders being shouted wasn’t enough, some enterprising teenagers pull up on the curbside with giant amplifiers strapped to the backs of their motorbikes and proceed to blast out karaoke for the ‘entertainment’ of all street food customers. There are fire eaters and street dancers too. To say that the food scene here is vibrant is an understatement: it’s choatic, loud, busy, oppressive, unrelenting and a glorious celebration of food, fun and youth.

Vinh Khanh street food, SaigonVinh Khanh Street is an intoxicating celebration of youth, food and fun

Head to Ốc Oanh (534 Vĩnh Khánh Street) for seafood and shellfish. This is the most famous of all the seafood joints on the street. In Vietnam fame often leads to apathy and a decline in quality, but this is not the case at Ốc Oanh where the portions are big, the seafood fresh, and the service brisk and efficient. Try the ốc hương ràn muối ớt (fried sea snails with salt and chilli) and the sò điệp nướng mỡ hành (grilled scallops with spring onions and peanuts). Prices are a little higher here than elsewhere but it’s worth it. Be prepared to wait a few minutes for a table, and don’t be shy to shout over the din when it comes to ordering. Near the intersection with Hoàng Diệu Street is Quán BBQ Lúa (33 Vĩnh Khánh Street). The speciality here is grill-it-yourself barbecued meat. A small coal-fired stove is placed on your table onto which you lay chunks of marinated beef, pork, goat and fish. The sườn heo ngũ vị (pork ribs in five spice marinade) is delicious.

Oc Oanh, Vinh Khanh Street, seafood, SaigonSometimes referred to as ‘Seafood Street’, Vinh Khanh is a great place to sample some shells

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Bình Thạnh District [MAP]

A long, narrow street connecting two of Saigon’s biggest arteries, Phan Văn Hân Street is lined with cheap food stalls frequented by locals and students from nearby universities. Just across the Thị Nghè Channel from the glitz and glamour of Saigon’s central District 1, Phan Văn Hân Street has a very local, unpretentious atmosphere. The street is densely packed with food vendors, shops, homes, businesses and motorbikes, creating an intimate environment where space (which is in short supply) is often shared. Snail and shellfish eateries – lit by naked fluorescent light bulbs – set up on the pavement next to the peeling plaster of old homes; bánh xèo stalls occupy local people’s doorsteps; soup vendors serve customers at tiny tables on a slither of sidewalk not more than a few feet wide. The scented smoke from all these food vendors drifts into the street, where their aromas mingle with the exhaust fumes from passing traffic.

Street food, shellfish, SaigonA snail and shellfish vendor on Phan Van Han Street

This is a very lively little neighbourhood where all the classic Vietnamese street food dishes are well-represented. Come between 6.00-8.30pm to experience it at its busiest. Bột chiên (fried rice flour cubes that I like to call ‘Vietnamese French fries’) is a street food staple: find it at the corner of Phan Văn Hân and Xô Viết Nghẹ Tĩnh streets. The vendor here has been serving bột chiện for 20 years and has gotten pretty darn good at it. One of the most famous noodle joints in the area Lương Ký Mì Gia (1 Huỳnh Mẫn Đạt Street) is right at the eastern extreme of Phan Văn Hân Street. They sell all sorts of noodles but the dish that made them famous is mì vịt tiềm (fresh yellow noodles with marintated aromatic duck) – get here early because they run out of this dish fast.

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Street food bot chien vendor, Saigon20 years in the business: a bột chiện vendor cooks up Vietnam’s answer to French fries

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District 1 [MAP]

Cô Giang is a long, straight street that unofficially marks the southern perimeter of Saigon’s burgeoning backpacker area in District 1. However, Cô Giang Street is a lot quieter than Phạm Ngũ Lão, Bùi Viện and Đề Thám streets whose bars, western restaurants and mini-marts make up the centre of the backpacker district. In general, travellers who choose to stay or spend time on Cô Giang Street are looking to get something more ‘authentic’, more ‘Vietnamese’ from their time in Saigon. While Cô Giang is not as densely packed with food stalls as other streets in this guide, it still offers plenty of local street-life and bustling open-air eateries, especially around the intersection of Cô Giang and Đề Thám streets. In the evenings bright fluorescent light bulbs illuminate streetside barbeques, whooshing woks, and bubbling cauldrons. Scented cooking smoke fills the air and hangs, like a Dickensian fog, over the diners sitting at tables on the sidewalk.

Shellfish street food, SaigonYoung locals hunker down for a night of shellfish on Co Giang Street

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Right on the corner of Cô Giang and Đề Thám streets there’s a cluster of hugely popular outdoor restaurants, specializing in thick Chinese-style fried noodles called hủ tiếu xào. Quán 79 is particularly good for this dish and there are plenty of other items on the menu here – most of which have been translated into inadvertently hilarious English, thanks, I suspect, to Google Translate: ‘vegetable of transcendent garlic’ was one of my favourites. Don’t miss the stalls selling bò lá lốt (grilled beef rolled in aromtic betel leaf); they’re easy to find because of the smoking barbecues out front and the enticing smell. The bò lá lốt at Hoàng Yến (121 Cô Giang Street) is superb and very cheap too (20,000VNĐ per portion).

Street food vendor, SaigonBeef rolled in aromatic betel leaf grilling on the sidewalk, Co Giang Street

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District 1 [MAP]

A chaotic jumble of motorbikes, cars, pedestrians, food vendors, and diners on the sidewalks devouring their dinners, Tran Khac Chan Street is a throbbing street food mecca. In the space of a couple hundred metres there are close to 50 food outlets, all vying for space and attention on this busy little street. Hemmed in at one end by the Thi Nghe Channel and at the other by the tree-lined Tran Quang Khai Street, this is a place to really let your ‘foodie instincts’ guide you: follow the smells, the smoke, the neon signage and, most importantly, local people, towards anything edible that takes your fancy. I think of this street as an open ‘wardrobe’ of food in which I’m free to try anything on.

Banh canh cua, street food, SaigonA bowl of ‘slippery’ bánh canh cua on Tran Khac Chan Street

Most of the action is at the Thi Nghe Channel end of the street. A good place to start is at the popular Banh Canh Cua 87 which, predictably, serves bánh canh cua at number 87 Tran Khac Chan. This gooey, slimy, crab-based concoction, uses thick and doughy noodles which are famously slippery: getting them to stay on your chopsticks from bowl to mouth is a challenge. There are a couple of enticing ‘grilled meat trolleys’ plying this street: the smell of barbecued chicken is difficult to pass up. Saigon nights can be hot and humid; cool off with a glass of freshly squeezed pomelo juice (nước ép bưởi) at 114 Tran Khac Chan. At the corner of Tran Khac Chan and Tran Khanh Du is Banh Xeo 79 where the cook, who claims to be shy, strikes eccentric poses in front of the camera.

Banh xeo vendor, street food, SaigonThe ‘shy’ lady at Banh Xeo 79 strikes a pose for the camera

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District 3 [MAP]

Lined with enormous concrete electricity pylons, Nguyen Thuong Hien is a straight and narrow street leading northeast from District 1.  Yellow street lamps poke up above the squat, boxy houses, and tangled electricity cables hang in front of neon signage like jungle vines. At night, there’s a sense of Dionysian abandon on this street: hundreds of diners take their seats at sidewalk restaurants, munching on shellfish, throwing empty beer cans under their tables, talking loudly, and singing along to acoustic guitars. There’s a lot to eat and drink on Nguyen Thuong Hien, and a lot of fun to be had.

Nguyen Thuong Hien Street, SaigonNguyen Thuong Hien is a narrow, busy, dimly lit street that’s full of food

The liveliest section of Nguyen Thuong Hien is between the cross streets of Nguyen Dinh Chieu and Vo Van Tan. Settle down to some snails and shellfish – a classic Saigon night out – at A Soi (237-239 Nguyen Thuong Hien). Oysters, clams, crab claws, sea snails and local beer are all on the menu here. Although Nguyen Thuong Hien is famous for its seafood, it’s also become the unofficial fruit juice street of Saigon. Near the intersection with Nguyen Dinh Chieu and with Nguyen Thi Minh Khai there are several large ‘juiceries’ where all number of tropical fruits are freshly squeezed into plastic bottles to take away (try Phat Dat at 125 Nguyen Thuong Hien). In the past, you could have headed to Nhân Quán for a bowl of its famous hủ tiếu Nam Vang noodles (slices of pork, whole shrimp and quail eggs in a clear sweet broth seasoned with shallots, spring onions and kale). However, they have recently moved location to 488 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, which is a 5-10 walk west of Nguyen Thuong Hien – but it’s worth the walk.

Snails & shellfish, street food, SaigonShellfish and beer is a classic Saigon night out: you’ll find plenty on Nguyen Thuong Hien Street

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59 Responses to 7 Great Streets for Street Food in Saigon

  1. Dorotq says:

    Im sitting on your page since 3 hours… Its great, I can find what I need- cheap sushi, beautiful places, a lot of tips. One word can desribe what I can find here: EVERYTHING! Thank you for your hard job on this webside.
    Greeting from Poland!

  2. Paulina says:

    So happy I found this blog! I am heading there next March. My first time in Asia and a check off my bucket list.

  3. Mike says:

    Brilliant article Tom, and thank you so much for posting it.

    It is incredibly difficult to get a summary of where to find the real deal when it comes to street food. So much of what we read about has inevitably become very much part of the well worn path, but you have managed to accurately report on some terrific food locations.

    We took your advice and hit Vinh Khanh Street big time tonight and had a great chow down at Hoa Don Ban Le (excuse the lack of Vietnamese accents). 3 of us hoed into tamarind crab, bbq giant scallops, clams, bbq chicken feet, etc etc. A real feast with a beer and change from $25.

    Thank you!

    • Hi Mike,

      Thanks. It’s really good to hear that you enjoyed your feast on Vinh Khanh Street – it makes me hungry just to hear about it.

      I hope you find more good food during the rest of your trip to Vietnam.


  4. Vishal says:

    I am pure vegetarian i.e. no fish sauce nor any meat, fish or egg. Any suggestions for street food options

    • Hi Vishal,

      It can sometimes be difficult being a vegetarian eating street food in Vietnam. You can look out for signs saying ‘cơm chay’ (vegetarian food) – you’ll see quite a lot of places like this in big towns. And try to remember this phrase, ‘tôi ăn chay’ (I’m a vegetarian), which you can say before ordering a dish so that people know you don’t eat meat or fish.

      I can’t think of any specific street food dishes at the moment that are vegetarian – when I’m with vegetarian friends I usually just order meat dishes without the meat: for example, bánh xèo (the savoury pancakes featured in some of the pictures on this page) không thịt (không thịt means ‘without meat’).

      I hope this helps,


  5. Isabel says:

    Hi Tom! I love your website! Your writing is amazing and your documentation is so thorough and helpful. I was in Saigon for a month last summer and am coming again in August of 2018. As a vegetarian, I found there is a lot of food available for me, but I have a specific question for you if you know. Do you know which of these streets has the best options for vegetarian food? I’m pretty flexible, I’ll eat meat broth, fish sauce, etc but no actual flesh. I know this is probably too specific a question for a carnivore, but any info you have would be great! Thank you so much!

    • Hi Isabel,

      Probably Su Van Hanh and Co Giang streets will have the most vegetarian options out of these 7 streets, because there are some Buddhist temples nearby. The word to look for is ‘cơm chay’ which means ‘vegetarian food’ in Vietnamese.

      Also, many people don’t eat meat on the new and full moons in Vietnam, so you’re much more likely to find vegetarian food all over the country on those days.

      I hope this helps,


  6. Charlotte Kleyn says:

    Great post, thanks!:-)

    Do you know if cakes/pastries in French style (like madeleines and croissants) are sold on the street in Ho Chi Minh City?

    Hope to hear from you!

    • Hi Charlotte,

      Yes, you can find street food carts selling French-style pastries in Saigon. Bear in mind that they are not necessarily like those you find in France 🙂

      I hope this helps,


  7. Emma says:

    Dear Tom

    Thanks to you we had the most amazing evening on Nguyen Thuong Hien Street last night – crab in tamarind sauce, barbequed oysters with roasted peanuts and lemongrass clams were among our favourites.

    You made our stay in Saigon so much better than it would have been – we had amazing sushi in a back street, visited the Cafe Apartment and had cocktails served in a pirate ship at Shri Bar.

    A few beers down the line last night we decided we would only do things recommended by you. But we arrived in Hoi An this afternoon and aside from the article on the Lantern Festival you’ve left us high and dry! Do you have any recommendations for anything off the beaten track? We’d really appreciate your help!

    • Hi Emma,

      Great to hear that you enjoyed Nguyen Thoung Hien Street and the rest of Saigon.

      Yes, I’m afraid you’re right: I’ve not written much specifically about Hoi An. Although I do like it there, my priorities have been writing about other areas. I hope to come to Hoi An again sometime soon and do some digging 🙂

      As much as I love walking around the old town, it’s difficult to get away from the tourist area: where do ‘real’ Hoi An residents eat, drink, play? I usually stray a couple blocks further out, looking for signs (not in English) for various regional dishes – cao lau, mi quang, banh xeo, banh beo – and then eating at any one of them that looks, feels, and smells good and is packed with local Vietnamese (not tourist Vietnamese).

      Anyway, that’s my advice, such as it is. I hope you enjoy yourselves,


      • Kbenetti says:

        Hi Tom, am in Hoi An, I have found a good way to spot a locals restaurant is the chairs – big chairs, westernised food, little chairs authentic food. Yesterday the place we found had no English on the menu, but clucking sounds will get you chicken of some kind, yesterday awesome fried chicken, today Sun Ga, bit too chewy for me, tomorrow I’m going to make moo sounds and see what the beef is like.

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