First published July 2025 | Words and photos by Phương Lê | Read time 13 minutes
Phương Lê is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. Having lived in all three regions of Vietnam, she has a deep understanding of the country’s cultural diversity. Currently working as an independent photographer and writer, her work has been featured in various media outlets. As a photo tour guide, she provides not only photographic guidance but also meaningful connections for photography and culture enthusiasts with an authentic Vietnam.
Tucked deep in the northern highlands of Vietnam, the tranquil district of Bắc Hà – often referred to as the “White Plateau” on account of its springtime plum blossom – hosts one of the country’s most unique events: the Bắc Hà Traditional Horse Racing Festival. Held annually in summer (usually in early June), this thrilling festival isn’t merely a sporting event; it’s a living tradition that celebrates the long-standing bond between local ethnic communities and their faithful companions – the horses. Recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage, the Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival stands out for its participants: the jockeys are not professional riders but local farmers and herders from districts like Bắc Hà, Si Ma Cai and Bát Xát, as well as neighboring provinces such as Tuyên Quang and Sơn La. These are men who grew up with horses, not as hobby animals, but as vital companions in everyday life. On race day, they trade farming tools for reins and become the center of an age-old spectacle, showcasing both their courage and connection with their animals.
Support My Site
Free | Independent | No Sponsored Content
“Hello, if you enjoy my website, please support it.
Thank you.” Tom
[Back Top]
HORSE RACING FESTIVAL
A Unique Annual Spectacle in the Northern Highlands
The horse racing festival takes place in Bắc Hà, a district in Lào Cai Province, about 300km northwest of Hanoi and around 100km east of Sa Pa. The festival is not fixed to a specific date but varies slightly each year and is usually announced a month in advance. Generally, the final round is held on the first or second Saturday in June. This guide introduces the Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival to travellers, focusing on the traditional role of horses in northern Vietnam, the history of this event and a description of the 18th Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival, attended by the author. Click from the contents below for details:
CONTENTS:
History of the Horse Racing Festival
The 18th Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival
⮟
If you enjoy this article, see Related Posts for similar stories and please support Vietnam Coracle with a donation or join our Patreon community or consider purchasing one of our Offline Guides & Maps from the shop. Thank you, Tom
MAP:
Horse Racing Festival | Bắc Hà
Role of Horses in Bắc Hà Life:
In the lives of the H’Mông and other ethnic groups in Bắc Hà, horses have long played an essential role. In a region marked by steep terrain and limited road access, horses were once the primary means of transportation, labor, and even spiritual connection. Beyond their physical usefulness – hauling goods, carrying people, or navigating narrow trails – horses have deeply permeated the cultural and spiritual consciousness of the local people. For the H’Mông, a horse is not just a tool but a lifelong companion, symbolically tied to both life and death. In some spiritual beliefs, it is said that only the horse can carry the shaman to different realms in search of a lost soul or guide the deceased on their journey to the afterlife.
The Bắc Hà horse, or the “Mông” breed, is often considered the most beautiful in Vietnam. Raising a good racing horse requires not only care but also deep understanding. Ideal horses must be sturdy yet agile, with sleek coats in hues of red, black, or gray and perfectly balanced builds. Locals select horses with great attention to physical detail: a straight nose, large expressive eyes, strong legs and glistening, single-tone coats are all signs of strength and promise. Horses typically reach their peak condition between 6-8 years of age, and their diet and training are gradually intensified in preparation for festivals.
The role of horses in daily life has changed significantly, as transportation networks and roads now reach even the most remote villages. Motorbikes and cars have become increasingly common, and as a result, horses are no longer the primary means of transporting goods as they once were. However, horses still remain important not only in the economic and spiritual life of the people of Bắc Hà but also as a central part of local celebrations – most notably, the horse racing festival – and even in cuisine, such as the locally famous dish, thắng cố, a traditional horse meat-based hotpot.
History of the Horse Racing Festival:
The horse racing festival in Bắc Hà traces its roots back decades, possibly even centuries, when races were modest, village-scale events with little formal structure. In the past, riders would compete along narrow trails or around open fields, sometimes incorporating mid-race shooting challenges. Prizes were simple yet meaningful: a jug of corn liqour (rượu ngô), a length of handwoven linen, or a communal honor.
In the 1980s, the local military played a role in reviving these traditional races, but it wasn’t until 2007 that the festival was officially reintroduced as part of a broader regional tourism initiative. Since then, the event has expanded in both scale and reputation, drawing large crowds, photographers and cultural enthusiasts from across the country.
Today, the races take place on a dedicated track just outside Bắc Hà town. While the organization has modernized, the spirit of the event remains deeply rooted in tradition. Riders race bareback, without saddles or reins, relying purely on balance, intuition and physical strength – a thrilling, visceral display of skill, heritage and horsemanship.
The 18th Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival:
In researching this article, I attended the 18th Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival, which kicked off on May 3rd at Bắc Hà Stadium and culminated with the final round on June 7th, 2025. The competition featured 98 jockeys from Bắc Hà, Bát Xát, and Si Ma Cai districts (Lào Cai Province), Hàm Yên District (Tuyên Quang Province) and Sơn La Province. The jockeys competed in both individual and team categories. The qualifying round covers a distance of 1,900 meters. At the end of the qualifiers, the 32 jockeys with the fastest times and no rule violations advanced to the semi-finals and finals. This year’s top prizes went to Lâm Văn Thiều from Hàm Yên (Tuyên Quang), and Tráng A Ma and Tráng A Giờ from Bát Xát (Lào Cai), among others – men who have become local heroes in their own right.
A good racing horse must be male with a tall, strong build, long and straight legs, a smooth coat, sharp eyes, a broad chest, a slim belly and a long, steady stride. When selecting a horse for racing, its legs must be straight and its hooves thick; if the hooves are splayed like a duck’s feet, the horse will run poorly. Before the Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival, horses are carefully trained and prepared with a mix of traditional knowledge and deep familiarity between the owner and the animal. Since most racers are local farmers who raise their own horses, the training process is closely tied to everyday life – the horse is not just an athlete but also a companion and working partner.
In the weeks leading up to the race, the horses undergo physical conditioning to build stamina and strength. They are taken on daily runs along mountain paths and village trails, often barefoot and without saddles, mimicking the conditions of the actual race. The jockeys focus on improving the horse’s speed, responsiveness to commands and endurance over long distances. Just as important is calming the horse’s temperament – ensuring it remains steady under pressure, unbothered by noise and quick to follow the rider’s lead.
On the day of the race, horses are often decorated with care and pride. Their manes may be brushed and trimmed and, in some cases, colorful cloths or tassels are added around the neck or head as a nod to local aesthetics and celebration. Though the decoration is minimal compared to ceremonial events, it reflects the owner’s affection and respect for the animal. The horse’s coat is cleaned and polished, highlighting its muscle tone and health – especially important for impressing both the judges and the cheering crowd. Altogether, this blend of practical training and simple, meaningful adornment shows how much the race is rooted in the bond between people and their horses, not just as a sport, but as a reflection of tradition, pride and community spirit.
The atmosphere during the race is electrifying, filled with the thrill of fierce competition among skilled jockeys. These riders are more than just athletes – they are farmers, horse whisperers and fearless competitors. Unlike professionals trained at modern facilities, these men grow up riding bareback through mountainous terrain, learning to control horses on steep slopes, narrow trails and uneven village paths. The key to success is balance. Without saddles or stirrups, jockeys must stay firmly seated while racing at full speed, shifting their weight with every twist and turn of the course. Sharp reflexes and intense focus are essential, especially on tight bends where a split-second mistake could mean falling or losing ground.
Experienced jockeys can read their horses like a second language – knowing when to push, when to hold back and how to keep them calm amid the deafening roar of the crowd. Controlling the reins with precision, syncing breath and movement, and navigating tightly packed races require years of practice. What truly sets the best apart is not just bravery, but an unbreakable bond with their horse, a trust built through daily life and shared labor. In this traditional race, raw strength meets instinctive understanding, making each run a powerful tribute to harmony, heritage and the enduring connection between people and horses in Vietnam’s northern highlands.
The Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival draws a remarkably large and spirited crowd each year, transforming this quiet highland town into a lively hub of excitement. On race day, more than 20,000 spectators fill the stadium and surrounding hillsides – a vibrant mix of locals, travelers, photographers and curious visitors from across Vietnam and beyond. People begin arriving early, dressed in colorful ethnic costumes and wide-brimmed hats, waving flags as anticipation builds. Cheers erupt across the valley as horses thunder down the track. Families huddle together, children perch on parents’ shoulders and vendors weave through the crowd selling snacks and drinks. For many, the festival is more than just a sporting event; it’s a cultural celebration and a heartfelt community gathering. The shared thrill of the race, the festive atmosphere and the rare chance to witness this unique tradition make the audience an essential part of the festival’s success.
As well as witnessing the intense competition, attending the Bắc Hà Horse Racing Festival is about engaging with a way of life. From the early morning rituals of grooming the horses, to the adrenaline rush of the final gallop, to the shared joy among locals and visitors alike, the festival embodies the resilience and spirit of Vietnam’s northern uplands. For travelers seeking an authentic, deeply human story told through hooves, hills and heritage, this is an unforgettable event.
⮟
If you enjoy this article, see Related Posts for similar stories and please support Vietnam Coracle with a donation or join our Patreon community or consider purchasing one of our Offline Guides & Maps from the shop. Thank you, Tom
*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Phương has written this guide because she wants to: she likes the horse racing festival and she wants readers to know about it. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
