First published September 2025 | Words and photos by Phương Lê | Read time 20 minutes
Phương Lê is a contributing writer for Vietnam Coracle. Having lived in all three regions of Vietnam, she has a deep understanding of the country’s cultural diversity. Currently working as an independent photographer and writer, her work has been featured in various media outlets. As a photo tour guide, she provides not only photographic guidance but also meaningful connections for photography and culture enthusiasts with an authentic Vietnam.
Former Trading Port on the Red River, Rich in Heritage Sites
Just 50 kilometres southeast of Hanoi lies Phố Hiến, a once-thriving international trading port on the Red River and today one of northern Vietnam’s most evocative heritage towns. In its prime, Phố Hiến rivalled even Thăng Long (Hanoi), earning the saying “Thứ nhất Kinh Kỳ, thứ nhì Phố Hiến” (The most prosperous area is the Imperial capital city, the second is Phố Hiến). Spanning about five square kilometres across Lam Sơn and Hồng Châu wards of Hưng Yên City, visitors can wander through Phố Hiến’s quiet lanes and explore its waterfront, sensing the echoes of its cosmopolitan past. For travellers keen on culture, history and architecture seeking a day trip from Hanoi, Phố Hiến offers a blend of living heritage – temples, shrines, pagodas, merchant guild halls – and signature local dishes. It’s an invitation to step back into the golden age of this once-bustling trading port.
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PHO HIEN OLD QUARTER
A Guide to Heritage Sites & Local Dishes
Below is my guide to Phố Hiến Old Quarter, part of Hưng Yên City, just an hour from Hanoi. I’ve included a map of the sites, a brief historical background, descriptions of the most remarkable heritage sites and tastiest local dishes, and practical travel tips about how to get there, when to go and what to wear when visiting the sites. Click from the contents below to navigate this guide and see Related Posts for more guides like this one. (If you enjoy this guide, please support Vietnam Coracle with a donation or become a member of my Patreon community or purchase an Offline Guide & Map.)
Contents:
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MAP:
Phố Hiến Old Quarter
Historical Background:
According to historical documents, the town’s history reaches back to the late 15th century, when its name appeared during King Lê Thánh Tông’s administrative reforms. By the 17th century it had become a vibrant political and economic hub, with stone steles at Chuông Pagoda (1711) recording its status as a cosmopolitan centre of 20 wards. Its special location – on a busy river section with docks, bustling markets and communities of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Western merchants – turned Phố Hiến into a northern counterpart to Hội An, earning it the nickname “Little Tràng An” (Tràng An is one of the old names of Hanoi).
Traces of this once-thriving 17th century trading hub still survive today. Phố Hiến preserves more than 100 relics, including nearly 20 nationally recognized pagodas, temples and merchant guild halls. This dense concentration of architecture was officially designated a National Special Monument in 2014. See below for details about individual historical sites.
Heritage Sites:
There are many historical sites in Phố Hiến. Below I have chosen eight of the most important and interesting to visit. I’ve written a brief introduction for each heritage site to give visitors some context. Bear in mind that polite dress is required when visiting many of these places (see Travel Information for details.) Click a site from the list below to read more about it:
- Xích Đằng Temple of Literature
- Võ Miếu Martial Temple
- Đền Trần Temple
- Thiên Hậu Temple
- Đền Mẫu Mother Goddess Temple
- Kim Đằng Temple
- Chùa Phố Pagoda
- Chùa Chuông Pagoda
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Xích Đằng Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu Xích Đằng) [MAP]
Located near the banks of the Red River in Hưng Yên City, Xích Đằng Temple of Literature is one of the most important relics in the Phố Hiến complex. Built in the 17th century in Xích Đằng Village and rebuilt in 1839 under the Nguyễn Dynasty, it reflects more than 400 years of the region’s learning tradition and honors 161 scholars from the old Sơn Nam region. Xích Đằng Temple is one of only six surviving temples of literature in Vietnam, second in age only to Hanoi’s Temple of Literature. Originally both a Confucian shrine and an examination venue, it became the provincial temple of literature for Hưng Yên after administrative changes. In 1992 Xích Đằng Temple it was recognized as a National Historical and Cultural Relic and it remains both a tourist attraction and a symbol of Hưng Yên’s enduring respect for education and Confucian values.
The complex is recognizable from afar by its centuries-old kapok trees and stone guardian animals. Its highlight is the Tam Quan gate with a two-tier, eight-roof pavilion once used to announce exam results. Inside, a bell tower replaces the traditional drum tower, while the inner sanctum follows a three-hall layout richly decorated with gilded woodwork. Nine stone steles record the names, hometowns and titles of 161 laureates, including notable figures such as Trạng Nguyên Tống Trần and Chu Văn An. Today the temple houses statues of Confucius, his disciples and Chu Văn An, and continues to host spring festivals, calligraphy exhibitions and rituals to honor learning.
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Võ Miếu (Martial Temple) [MAP]
Võ Miếu stands on a prime site at the head of Trưng Trắc Street, Quang Trung Ward, traditionally believed to be a place of prosperity. The temple venerates Quan Thánh Đế Quân – better known as Guan Yu (Quan Công) of the Three Kingdoms period – celebrated as a symbol of loyalty and righteousness and regarded as a protector of more than 20 traditional trades. Built by Fujianese merchants in Phố Hiến during the Lê Cảnh Hưng era (1740–1786) and renovated in 1898 under the Nguyễn Dynasty, the temple blends Vietnamese and Fujian architectural styles. Its layout follows the classic “inner Công, outer Quốc” plan with Tam Quan gate, front hall, incense house, main sanctuary and side corridors.
Võ Miếu preserves valuable artifacts including a bronze statue of Guan Yu, a bronze ritual set, Ming-era bowl, Lê-era incense burner, and a stone altar. Each year on the 13th day of the fifth lunar month, locals hold a solemn festival marking Guan Yu’s birthday with offerings and traditional Chinese-style treats such as bánh rồng câu, bánh rùa and bánh Tô Châu. Recognized as a National Architectural Monument in 1998, Võ Miếu remains a vivid reminder of Phố Hiến’s multicultural past and enduring respect for moral virtues.
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Đền Trần Temple [MAP]
Trần Temple lies beside the scenic Bán Nguyệt Lake. It is one of the key sites in the Phố Hiến relic complex, recognized as a Special National Status monument in 2014. The temple honors Trần Hưng Đạo (Trần Quốc Tuấn, 1228–1300), the celebrated general of the Trần Dynasty. Renowned for both intellect and military skill, he united the royal clan, led Đại Việt’s armies to victory in three wars against the Mongol–Yuan invaders, and authored classic military treatises such as Hịch Tướng Sĩ and Binh Thư Yếu Lược. After his death, he became “Đức Thánh Trần,” a national spirit worshipped across Vietnam. Tradition holds that Phố Hiến was one of his military bases thanks to its strategic position at the confluence of three rivers. The original temple was built in the 14th century soon after his passing and has been renovated many times, with the current architecture mainly from the Nguyễn Dynasty (1863 and 1892).
Today Trần Temple retains a three-hall layout (Front Hall, Middle Sanctuary and Rear Sanctuary) and houses altars to Trần Hưng Đạo, his ancestors, and loyal generals Yết Kiêu and Dã Tượng. It preserves valuable artifacts including carved panels, stone steles, royal decrees and ceremonial objects from the Nguyễn era. Every year, two major festivals are held on the 8th of the third lunar month (marking the Bạch Đằng victory) and the 20th of the eighth lunar month (his death anniversary). These events combine solemn worship with vibrant folk activities, reflecting the community’s deep spiritual connection. Today Trần Temple remains a spiritual and cultural landmark, drawing pilgrims and visitors from across Vietnam to honor the nation’s enduring hero and Phố Hiến’s rich history.
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Đền Thiên Hậu Temple [MAP]
Thiên Hậu Temple stands in the heart of Trưng Trắc Street, Quang Trung Ward. It venerates Lady Lâm Túc Mạc (Mazu), the Fujian-born sea goddess who protected sailors and traders. Born in Bồ Điền, Fujian, she was famed for discovering sea plants to prevent famine and, after her death, was believed to fly over the seas in a red robe rescuing ships. Over time she was elevated to “Heavenly Queen” and worshipped by Chinese communities worldwide.
Built in the 16th–17th centuries by 14 Chinese clans from Fujian, Guangdong and Guangxi, the temple combines traditional Chinese design with Vietnamese craftsmanship. Renovated in the 19th–20th centuries, it features a Tam Quan gate, incense hall, and a five-bay main sanctuary decorated with Bát Tràng bricks, curved rooflines, stone guardian lions, and intricate wood carvings depicting Chinese legends. The rear hall enshrines five statues representing Fujian’s five prefectures alongside altars to Lady Lâm’s family and the temple’s founders.
The temple preserves valuable artifacts such as royal decrees, stone steles, granite lions, a 17th century palanquin for the Heavenly Mother, and maritime-related offerings brought from China. Each year major festivals take place on the 23rd day of the third lunar month (her birthday) and the 9th day of the ninth lunar month (her passing), with processions, traditional foods, and lively community participation. Thiên Hậu Temple remains one of the few surviving Chinese heritage buildings in Phố Hiến, reflecting centuries of maritime trade and cultural exchange.
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Đền Mẫu (Mother Goddess Temple) [MAP]
Mẫu Temple (Hoa Dương Linh Từ) is one of Phố Hiến’s most revered landmarks, dedicated to Lady Dương of China’s Song dynasty – a rare dedication for Vietnamese temples. Built under King Trần Nhân Tông (late 13th century) and enlarged in 1896, it was listed as a National Architectural Monument in 1990. Legends tell of King Trần Anh Tông dreaming of the goddess’s protection during his 1294 campaign against Champa; after victory he restored the temple and granted port taxes to sustain worship. For centuries sailors and merchants have come here to pray for safe journeys.
The temple features a two-tier, eight-roof gate with blue-glazed inscriptions and a 700-year-old banyan tree shading its courtyard, creating a serene spiritual atmosphere. The main festival takes place from the 10th to 15th day of the third lunar month with processions, offerings and chầu văn singing, while the “Mộc Dục” (robe-changing) ritual on the 14th day of the seventh lunar month also draws many pilgrims.
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Đền Kim Đằng Temple [MAP]
Kim Đằng Temple lies in the center of Kim Đằng Village, Lam Sơn Ward, on land once chosen as a military base by General Đinh Điền for its auspicious “Dragon–Tiger” feng shui. The temple venerates General Đinh Điền and his wife Phan Thị Mọi Nương. Adopted by Đinh Công Trứ and a childhood companion of Đinh Bộ Lĩnh, Đinh Điền played a major role in ending the “Twelve Warlords” period and establishing the Đinh Dynasty. After opposing the rise of Lê Hoàn, he retreated to Đằng Man and died there on November 17, 979. Local people built a temple on the site of his former headquarters, also honoring his three loyal lieutenants.
Rebuilt many times, the temple now follows a “Đinh” (丁) layout with a five-bay front hall and three-bay sanctuary. The main altar houses statues of Đinh Điền and his wife in meditation posture. Notable relics include royal decrees from the Lê and Nguyễn dynasties, a Minh Mạng-era bronze bell, thrones, and carved plaques celebrating the general’s virtues. Every year from the 15th to 17th of the 11th lunar month, Kim Đằng Temple hosts a festival to commemorate Đinh Điền and his wife with processions and folk activities such as cockfighting, lion dances, water puppetry and traditional singing.
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Chùa Phố Pagoda [MAP]
Also known by its classical name Bắc Hòa Nhân Dân Tự, Phố Pagoda stands on Trưng Trắc Street, Quang Trung Ward, within the Phố Hiến relic complex. Built by the Chinese community in the 17th century, the pagoda combines Vietnamese, Chinese, and even Western architectural styles. Its key structures include a two-tier, eight-roof Tam Quan gate; a three-bay front hall; an incense hall with Gothic-style arches reminiscent of medieval churches; a three-bay Upper Sanctuary with double-column frames and curved dragon–phoenix rooflines; plus the Ancestor and Mother Houses.
Phố Pagoda preserves many valuable artifacts such as wooden and earthen Buddhist statues, stone incense burners, bronze bells, and gilded calligraphy panels. Phố Pagoda today draws both worshippers and visitors with its distinctive blend of sacred atmosphere and multicultural architecture.
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Chùa Chuông Pagoda (Bell Pagoda) [MAP]
Chuông (‘bell’) Pagoda was first built in the Lê dynasty (15th century) and later restored while preserving its late-Lê architectural style. The pagoda is renowned for its elegant design, serene lotus ponds, and rich collection of ancient relics. Notable artifacts include bronze bells, stone gongs, gilded calligraphic panels, a blue-stone bridge, a 1702 stone incense burner, and the 1711 Kim Chung Tự stele, which indicates an ancient trade route linking Thăng Long with Phố Hiến passed right by its gate.
Bell Pagoda’s greatest treasure is its diverse array of Buddhist statues: the Eight Vajra Guardians (Bát Bộ Kim Cương), the Eighteen Arhats, four Bodhisattvas, and two Dharma Protectors along the corridors – each uniquely carved with vivid, humanlike expressions. This distinctive style creates an intimate, serene atmosphere for visitors and worshippers alike. Annual festivals on the 15th of the first lunar month, 8th and 15th of the fourth month, and 15th of the seventh month attract pilgrims and visitors from across the country. Bell Pagoda remains one of the signature spiritual and architectural landmarks of Hưng Yên, embodying centuries of devotion, artistry and history.
Local Dishes:
A great way to enjoy the heritage sites of Phố Hiến is to visit a couple of places and then take a break from sightseeing by trying one of the region’s speciality dishes, before moving on to the next temple, shrine or pagoda. Among local specialties, bún thang lươn Phố Hiến and canh cá rô đồng are two of the most iconic dishes of Phố Hiến and Hưng Yên Province as a whole.
Bún Thang Lươn Phố Hiến:
Unlike Hanoi’s version of this dish, Phố Hiến’s bún thang features tender river eel, giving the dish a distinctive flavor. A single bowl uses over 20 ingredients: fine rice noodles, shredded pork sausage, paper-thin egg crepes, crispy pork belly, and especially fresh eel sautéed or fried after careful preparation. The broth, simmered from pork bones, freshwater crab, shrimp and sá sùng, delivers a deep sweetness, enhanced with a touch of shrimp paste and fresh herbs such as banana blossom, perilla and Vietnamese coriander. Colorful and nourishing, the dish combines the white of noodles, the golden eel, the green of herbs and the yellow of egg in one vibrant bowl. Visitors can enjoy bún thang lươn at the following spots:
Bún Thang Lươn Thế Kỷ [MAP]
Bún Thang Lươn Phố Hiến Xưa [MAP]
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Canh Cá Rô Đồng:
Canh cá rô đồng is a fish soup and one of Hưng Yên’s most beloved countryside dishes. Freshwater perch fish is carefully selected, fried until golden and crispy on the outside while keeping the flesh tender and sweet inside. The clear broth is light yet flavorful, carrying the natural sweetness of the fish. Simple but refined, this soup embodies the charm of rural Vietnam – a comforting bowl of freshness and tradition that visitors should not miss when exploring Phố Hiến. Some nice places to try canh cá rô đồng include:
Canh Cá Rô Đồng Yến 122 [MAP]
Canh Cá Rô Đồng Đông Béo [MAP]
Travel Information:
A single day is usually enough for a trip to Phố Hiến from Hanoi, but if you’d like to linger and experience the town at a slower pace, an overnight stay is possible. Because Hưng Yên is not a major tourist hotspot, accommodation options are fairly limited. You’ll mostly find local guest houses (nhà nghỉ) and a few mid-range hotels in Hưng Yên City.
Getting to Phố Hiến from Hanoi:
Phố Hiến lies about 50km southeast of Hanoi in Hưng Yên City, making it convenient for a day trip from the capital. If you ask at your accommodation, they should be able to find out about local buses to Hưng Yên City, from where you can easily find your way to Phố Hiến heritage area. However, the most convenient and flexible option is to use your own vehicle (such as a motorbike) or hire a private car and driver. The journey takes roughly one hour by road.
Most historical landmarks are clustered within a few square kilometers, but some sit slightly farther out, so having your own transport makes it easier to explore without getting tired. Although walking between the sites is possible, cycling or motorbiking is more efficient. Use my map to find your way around Phố Hiến heritage buildings.
Best Time to Visit:
Phố Hiến reveals a different charm with each season. From February to April, spring festivals bring life to the town’s ancient temples and pagodas. July and August mark the longan season, when orchards overflow with the province’s famed nhãn lồng fruit – sweet, fragrant and freshly picked. Come in September to November, and you’ll find the weather pleasantly cool and dry, perfect for wandering heritage streets and taking photos.
Tips for Visitors:
When visiting Phố Hiến’s historic temples and pagodas, dress modestly – make sure your shoulders and knees are covered to show respect. Wear comfortable shoes to navigate the narrow heritage lanes and scattered relics with ease. Plan an early start from Hanoi so that you can experience a full day of sightseeing and sampling local dishes, and still return to the capital before evening.
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*Disclosure: Vietnam Coracle content is always free and independent. Phương has written this guide because she wants to: she likes these historic sites and she wants readers to know about them. For more details, see the Disclosure & Disclaimer statements and my About Page
